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Was a real nice day today so I washed the storage trailer. Did the other two last week so done with washing for a while now.

Can't remember where I got them but I got the shim kits pretty cheap so I got one shim kit for each hub. Yes you can reuse your old ones if they're in good shape it might not need to add or subtract any shims. You can always resell to somebody on the board any extra kits after you're done or...

Maybe I should have mentioned you need to buy the dot Synflex fittings to fit the dot Synflex line. And you make it longer than the original loop it down more. Daydreaming one day and I thought if I use the push lock fittings and if I carried an extra 6 ft piece of Synflex line I could always...

Myself Napa and Synflex line and one 90* Synflex fitting for final filter and one 45* fitting for the Head. They even make push lock fittings if you want to pay the price.

On the secondary fuel canister there is the over pressure valve. On the Head there is the over flow valve and the booster on the IP is the bypass valve. The bypass on the booster opens when there is an over pressure in the booster pump and it just reroute the fuel back to the booster pump inlet...

Well I thought I mentioned it earlier. To check that delivery valve that black 12 point cap on the side of the head. Just don't lose that little spring so take the cap off real careful. I did a post about it on the board showing a picture of that delivery valve that it has a screwdriver slot in...

Although the booster pump can produce as much as 70 80 psi it's that overflow valve on the other side of the head that maintains the pressure the pump can put out. I tried to describe it once like a garden hose without any nozzle on the end you turn it on and there's a big stream coming out but...

Well thank you for the thank you. Something else you might want to do is get some power service injector cleaner plus and double up on the amount used for the amount of fuel you have in a tank. Need to eat some of that varnish tarnish up that gathers on the fuel control unit assembly and the...

Yeah I do believe you got lucky and that fuel control unit assembly wasn't really stuck hard and the shutdown cable was able to pull it back to the no fuel position. Only once did this happen to me when I was checking out a truck at GL at their yard and hit the starter switch and it took off but...

Just throwing it out there whenever we have performance problems if we still have the problem after all the filters are replaced then we do idle pressure and high idle pressure of the system. At idle the minimum should be 30 psi and at high idle the minimum should be 60 psi

If that's the problem then that would be an adjustment of the fuel delivery system. You said the arm on the fuel control assembly unit was only going to 6:00. Yes we talked about it being close to the 7:00 position. Being at 7:00 position it would deliver more fuel as the collar is covering up...

Okay that makes more sense now but that's not the droop screw. That will be your main fuel control set up on a truck that does not have an FDC. There you will be controlling your fuel for your egts. I would have to look up in the TM but I don't even think you have a droop screw on the G...

This has me a little confused. Droop screw and fuel shut off to open? Is your FDC bypassed? Once the FDC is bypassed the droop screw should not be adjusted because it just changes the main fuel setting / twin nuts that we adjust for EGT's. Could you please look through the TM 9 on the IP and...

Post #45 What did you do to your M37 today? | Page 3 | SteelSoldiers

Do not know why your throw out bearing went bad. Myself whenever I did a clutch throw out bearing replacement after pedal adjustment I would take off the cover off the bottom of the bell housing and with the engine running look up in there with a flashlight and make sure to throw out bearing is...

Myself I would hold off on removing the hydraulic head as the op says once he gets it started it will run. I sent a PM telling him to remove the cap and not to lose the spring and check the delivery valve. Also he can remove the cap and check the overflow valve is not all gummed up. Same thing...

Have you even checked the fuel control unit assembly? It should work freely and be in the 7:00 position. With your finger you should be able to push it towards the firewall and let it go and it snap back to 7:00.

You can put a 0 to 20 psi gauge on the bleeder screw and try cranking the engine over and see what kind of pressure you're developing.

I know you said you checked the phasing but were you real careful and looked really closely mine was only two splines off. I thought it was my hubs too same thing as yours the same noise I ran all six of mine set the lash according to Steve's 6x6x6 way of doing it. Took her for a ride no change...

On a good working system the in tank pump will circulate fuel through the entire system and back to the fuel tank before you hit the starter. The thing is throwing me off is he said he's having some high running pressures almost 80 psi. On a good running system and the whole system primed we...