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T1 and T2 both look like they are tied to the AVR

Have a 004. Ill never parallel. Would love a spare drop in

I have a 004 and I retapped it to a low zigzag and have been able to pull the rated current

Engine speed is for frequency(Hz) only. The knob is for voltage only. What voltage are you reading? If you are using the control cube to meter make sure the selector switch is in the right place. If you are reading voltage on an external meter and the knob does nothing, the first thing i...

One thing I have done to pots when they act funny, with the set off crank the pot all the way up and back down several times. sometimes the wiper gets corroded and needs a degunking. If its an open pot (you can see the wiper) a little deoxit goes a long way

Yes. not to mention all the other "standard" voltages of the world. Kinda makes you wonder why they picked their areas power back in the day.

Another thing is how you hook this up. depending on your connection changes how your bond (connection between ground and neutral) must be setup. Before I go into a huge post about the differences and rules of grounding and bonding, How are you hooking up to your service? And yes...

416 is more of an overseas thing. As to why the Mil stuck with them, I cant give a solid answer

Make sure you meter to L0. Next place id meter is l0 to the line side of the contactor.

where are you measuring?

If you think a proper interlock is expensive, You haven't considered the life of someone. Using lockout is known as an administrative control. These are usually avoided because they are easy to defeat. always design based on the lowest common idiot.

What i have read calls to blend it with diesel some people do full wmo with some gasoline to thin and get it closer to the flammability of diesel

Ive been toying with WMO for fuel. Might have to pick your brain a bit

I avoid the 0dark30 wakeup call, I used my powers as an electrician and automated the whole thing.

I had one recently too, Annoying thing it was caused by a tree limb, That I called in to duke as a hazard, That they looked at and said it wasnt.. But yes they are getting too expensive to run, So far I only used what I had on hand, dreading having to refill my cans.

At this time I would also like to point out that when you disconnect this bond leave the generator hooked up. running it disconnected from the house and the bond disconnected will give you weird voltages (floating neutral). Just something to keep in mind.

No ground rod to the frame. While it can be done without adversely impacting the way the ground is meant to work its nest to not alter your house grounding. White wire to L0 Green/bare wire to chassis Line 1 to L1 line 2 to L3 The bond is usually wired off of L0 to the chassis.

If it were me and rigging needed to be done, I would use a few wraps of exhaust pipe wrap.

Start by getting into the manuals (TM tap at the top of the page) When you hold the switch to start, you are bypassing the voltage regulator (this is the flash circuit, its what gets the head going to excite the regulator) You might have a bad AVR but that requires testing to confirm.

The gauges on these are more or less a guideline. Use a known good meter.