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So I figured you guys would appreciate the M1070 not just sitting around.

My 1984 M936 has dead batteries every time I go to start it. These are NAPA military-style (the square ones) batteries less than a year old. I know I have a trickle drain somewhere in the truck, but damn if I can find it. I'd like to put a battery kill switch on it. Anyone have any pictures...

I see the old chemical alarm mounting plate in my 1994 M1070. Wires 1746 and 1747 go to it. Do either of these wires get 24 V from the switch? Would it be possible to simply wire up a dome light in the same place on the chem alarm switch?

Two questions: What goes in the round circle on the front left of the hood? It looks like it might have been a blackout drive light or something, but they changed it at the last minute? What goes in the baskets on top of the winches? I was thinking chock blocks or snatch blocks, but don't see...

I already have the square ones, and it has several unconnected wires. I agree I could use group 31's, but still need to know where the extra wires go. Positive or negative? 12 volts or 24?

Does someone have a photo of the M1070 battery bay? They delivered my HET with two small car batteries, and I want to put in four military sized batteries, but can't figure out the wiring from the manuals. They have three small feeder wires (18xx, 12xx, and a third), but don't see those in the...

I think I was misunderstood. My truck has a cab (pic below). I only posted a picture of another truck with the cab removed for demonstrative purposes, showing how lucky I am that the cab was NOT removed.

As per the auction site, it starts and runs with a jump. That's better than not. No word on actually moving under it's own power. At least they didn't cut the cab off before the sale.

Yah, so I accidentally just bought one of these monsters, too. I have no idea why and it'll cost me more to get it here than my 5-ton cost. No idea what Imma do with it, but it'll sit nicely along next to my Peterbilt and other stuff I don't use. Maybe this is the cry for help my family has...

I can pull the bulb easy enough, but dat buzzer? How to disable it without disabling the low air/parking brake buzzer?

I just did my motor swap on my 1984 M936 with a replacement (used) NHC250, and but for a few small issues it seems to be fixed. I did have a bird build a nest in the muffler during the downtime, so startup was "interesting" and now I need a new muffler. Anyways, after the swap my "Engine...

Would the warranty be worth the paper it's written on? I'm thinking of buying the long block and installing it myself, but I want a warranty. I'm tired of paying thousands of dollars only to watch the mechanic scratch his head when parts fly off.

Has anyone had any experience with MTP out of Many, LA? They seem to have a good warranty on 250 long blocks. R

Different mechanic rebuilt the third motor. Gonna try a 4th, all new. R

Well, the rebuilt in-frame (all new sleeves, all new pistons, heads worked, everything) just threw a rod through the side of the engine block. I'll be moving on to my 4th motor in ~1,100 miles. Anyone that says the NHC 250 is a great reliable motor doesn't know my truck.

I do have an automatic high idle with the crane, but I disengaged it at the air piston and control it manually. I drive around with the transfer case on the floor. Never figured out what the upper (above neutral) position does, other than bang my ankle.

It sounds too shallow to be that, and I also just had this engine fully rebuilt. It sounds like it is under the cab, not in the engine.

Governor at 2200, right at 58 mph indicated. I got it up to 61 once and it felt like I was re-entering earth's atmosphere. Also, re-read my post. I edited to provide more info.

My 1984 M936 has a terrible rattle at highway speed- but only when the engine is at governor and I go down a slight downhill. At normal cruise it's fine, but when I go to a slight downhill--only enough to put the engine/driveline in a neutral load-- it will rattle like a bunch of bolts in a...