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You can get them on Amazon or PM me your address and I'll drop a couple in the mail to you in the morning. I think you have to buy packs of 20 on the Amazon.

I agree with simp. You shouldn't need any of those chip boards in there. Just two solenoids and a couple of diodes. I have an ABS truck and mine has no electronic circuitry in it at all.

That's a Simp question, but I believe they are all 24v 85 amp continuous duty solenoids. There are a couple of small diodes in the box as I recall as well.

It's really pretty simple. Pull the old box down with a couple of half inch socket wrenches. Unplug it from the truck. Pry the box lid off with a flat tip screwdriver. Replace the two starter solenoids Inside the box wire for wire. Very simple process, should take a couple of hours at most.

You can rebuild the PCB yourself. Mine was bad when I got it, as well. You just need to order two of these and get a screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FQMZO2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VZNRDF8P2G4TY701S942?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Fermont 804B that I'm raising from the dead. The engine starts and runs, and I've replaced the missing gauges. I can't get it to generate electricity, I suspect because the resistor to the "frequency" is missing. From my research, I understand that I have to replace the voltage...

I need to replace both my driver's seat bottom (suspension seat), and the passenger bench seat bottom and back rest. That would only leave the driver's seat backrest as old, and I would just swap all of them out. Has anyone done a recover? I can buy covers from Midwest, but only some are in...

I wish I could take credit for that load. I just lifted the boom and ran the 936. My guys did all the chains.

Light(er) load today (17,040 pounds). But the hydraulics are dead, so I had to lift the boom with the 936 to get it on the trailer. And she thought she was just going to sit in a field and retire!!

No "two finger steering". It actually drives really nice loaded. The trailer has air brakes, so that helps a lot. As for your purchase of a trailer, I'd get a 15 ton, not a 5-ton capacity. Mine is a 10-ton capacity, and I knock on that door more than I'd like to admit (e.g. the Genie 1056 as...

It squatted a little when I pulled that telehandler up with the crane (too lazy to use the winch), but I think it's level. Look at the bed rails compared to the truck behind it, as well as the window frame to the building. The truck is almost perfectly level. I do agree, it looks "off", but...

Doin' work!

Right. That's my question. The "handle with a ball" is the clutch lever. The manual only says "move lever as far back as it will go". The lever is labelled "clutch" with an "in" and "out". It doesn't move front/back, it moves (to the driver) left and right, towards and away from the winch...

How to "set spring brake override"? It's a momentary button, correct? How would you keep the button in while operating the winch (from the right rear of the truck)?

Another question: On the front winch, the clutch lever should be in the "OUT" position when winching, correct? The manual only says "move the lever as far back as it will go". My lever moves left/right, not front/back. It is indicated clutch "in" or "out". I assume "out" means the winch is...

They got it out with six trucks/winches, all on double snatch blocks.

Specifically, there is a kit (maybe aftermarket) that locks the front wheels, too. Yes, the spring brake emergency release button (under the steering wheel) releases just the front brakes. The parking brake releases the rear axles.

Correct, but that only unlocks the front wheels, not the rear.

I got my M936 slightly stuck this weekend. There was a big tree to the rear, but I couldn't winch to it because ALL the wheels lock with the crane in gear. Has anyone figured out a way to bypass the wheel brakes with the crane in gear?