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@HUMMER H1 What was involved in the taillight swap? Just a new surround and different lights? Are they Wrangler taillights? Mine could use a new set but the LED prices are steep for the military version. Truck looks awesome, great job so far!

Welcome Midwest brother!

You’ll want a set of injection line wrenches, but nothing to it. Wrench goes in/on, loosen, listen, watch.

@Retiredwarhorses

Good deal, I should probably check mine as well. I think it’s just the swinging in the direction that causes it, but it is only momentary and it’s definitely not pegged in my case.

Mine does this if I’m driving during the “afterglow” period, when the plugs cycle off (Im guessing off, but don’t have alight rigged up yet), the battery gauge spikes into the red. If it’s not under load, it bounces between green and yellow until the afterglow is finished. I figured this was...

I think it’s your glow plugs being cycled on. If I just started my HMMWV and start to drive before they’re done cycling (60-90 seconds on a cold start), I will see this, too. I let it go through the standard warm up and everything is normal. I have the 200a Gen on an A2.

I cleaned up my battery box, did away with some unnecessary equipment and setup a 12v panel for interior lights (white and red), ancillary exterior lighting, and to hard wire the comms system. I’m pretty weak at electrical work, so it was slow going, but it turned out nicely.

I appreciate your help with this. I have a much better sense of the electrical system now. Regarding the switch, I’ve seen a handful with the same specs but different model numbers. I think I’m going to call Hella tomorrow to clarify. I’m also going to take this opportunity to remove the slave...

Thank you, sir!

So I figure this was easier than trying to describe it. Big switch is labeled in red. Little switch is one of those colors? I haven’t traced those wires, but yellow is labeled 290, 291, 537. I was planning on running the 2500a Hella (metal) and a 1000a Hella (red plastic), is that enough...

I’m in the process of setting up a dual disconnect for my M1123 and was planning to copy your setup. Is this what you’re running? Switch 1 cuts the 12v (low side/rear) ground connection Switch 2 cuts the positive connection between the two batteries Electrical is not my strong suit, I’ve...

HMMWV transmission code reader:

They’re definitely not common, they didn’t make very many Alphas and it will take a considerable amount of damage to total out a $200k+ truck like that. I’ve only seen H1 doors pop up a few times- for $10-15k, never a set of Alphas. I think it’s a cool idea, but it’s the same idea dozens of...

I went with cheaper tires, but FWIW, I have something like $2k into my wheels and tires. https://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/ironman/all-country-m-t/p/TV153001127...

AFAIK Black Rhino makes their "Arsenal" wheel in +12mm, which I believe makes it just about flush. I can't confirm that as I'm part of the sketchy -18 crew, sticking out the sides, begging for my spindle nuts and wheel bearings to fail. EDIT: Disregard - from what I was able to determine...

I don't disagree, but at least they'll still be making parts for some years to come. Whether or not they sell to the civilian market or fit earlier gen trucks remains to be seen, I suppose.

Their social media stuff has been abuzz in the last 24 hours, new website drops in about two hours, new videos, etc. Apparently there is going to be another "recap" program, so the well may be drying up for a bit- regarding auction HMMWVs. Anyway, it's interesting stuff, worth a look...

Figured I'd drop this: https://www.disco32.com/ I have a few of their components, good quality stuff, I run their PTT setup for my Peltors to work a Baofeng UV-5/8 comms setup. They might have something worth looking at.

Re: Code 22 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/4l80e-code-22-throttle-position-sensor-low-voltage.215583/