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It is true that the older CTIS control boxes don't coms with J1939. The newer FMTV ones do, but the older green box units and even the older black box units do not and since the 900 series trucks are older also I would not expect that they are capable of operating on J1939 anyway - so it may be...

The thread has 26 pages of ECO hub information at this point. If it drifts a bit it's pretty much irrelevant as the original discussion has already covered most aspects of note. The oil pump has/had multiple design revisions and defects. The pump rotor (gear vs. gerotor), and the idler gear...

That's just it though - the engine isn't "running" at or near it's redline in decel. It's being spun by the transmission and is not under power - no combustion pressure is taking place. That's not the same kind of load as operating under WOT, 370 HP @ 30 lbs of boost pressure. And over the road...

Sounds like you guys are worried about hurting the engine from over-revving. Empirical evidence suggests this isn't a failure mode we need to be worried about. Have never heard of this happening. Fuel consumption isn't an issue when in decel. And so we're down to nervousness over engine speed...

I haven't had an issue and there's plenty of hills around me. If you lightly depress the accelerator the exhaust brake will turn off and you will coast without downshifting. IDK I find it to be really pretty dang good overall and WAY LESS aggressive than it was before the ECO hubs. Compared to...

If you increase the target gear, you won't get much braking effect on medium and lower speed descent since the trans won't downshift and raise engine RPM to where the PAC brake is most effective. I assume you can manually shift it but what's the desire to not have this automated by the computer...

Interesting. Wonder how long or how many power cycles it stores them.

Used to use that a lot. It's AWEFUL to clean up if you ever have to go back in there. I personally use The Right Stuff black. It's a "1 minute RTV silicone." Works amazing on SBC china walls..... Hylomar would be another interesting choice. Also requires a special solvent but it's reusable...

The slide hammer bead breaker takes less than a minute typically. With the tire laying on the ground. If you haven't tried one I highly suggest it. I get why people try hammers and wedges and soap and hanging stuff in the air and all kinds of home brew techniques - but the tire industry solved...

WABCO ABS module is also on the J1939 although I haven't got one to speak over that bus - only via J1708. They will complain with an ABS light though if the bus is down. According to the schematic they are connected to both busses. It is also possible in theory to connect the 260 amp alternator...

You can avoid all of that labor with the proper tool I linked above. It's what the military uses - a 50" slide-hammer bead breaker.

No - the CTIS module has no history code function. Although it will still attempt to operate with some codes. It's not a sophisticated computer.

If you have significant tire pressure imbalances it can have a hard time till the system gets them equalized. Check your tire pressures before you startup the truck and make sure they are all even then see what it does. The most common issue with CTIS is leaking tires or bad wheel valves.

There BIG o-rings between the wheel halves. Must have new ones for new tires.

Not that hard. Did all 5 of mine. You REALLY want one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-35926-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B000P6USVA

Have you read through the troubleshooting manual in preparation of receiving your computer diagnostic parts? https://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/WQ86BTpCnbQ52SaSq/axts-0015.pdf

Check your air line bundles. This is a PS magazine article from 2018.

Well that's 1,760 watts of solar. Not 2Kw. But yeah very similar to my setup except I only have 12' of habitat on my M1079 van. I think my panels are technically 405 watts each. But again it will derate due to heat so you'll probably only get about 1.4 Kw if it's sitting in the hot sun. That's...

It makes a HUGE difference. That's why I did it. I did thermal imaging before and after. The 1079 van construction does have thermal breaks between the inner skin and the aluminum studs but they just aren't that effective. The inner walls get CRAZY hot when the outside is in direct sun. This...

2 KW is a LOT of solar. But remember they won't produce peak power unless they are angled directly at full sun, and also unless it's a sunny day in winter the panels will derate due to heat. I have 1.6 KW on my truck and the most I have seen it put out is about 1.3 KW when I'm driving the truck...