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The second photo looks like they go to the drivers side alternator.
The Brown wire with push on connector goes to the tach buffer connection and the Black/White wire goes to the ground connection.
I know the feeling,
A friend of mine and I troubleshot a problem that we " didn't have " today with a antenna rotor.
3 hours later, we fixed a problem that wasn't there when we started.
As we all know, If it isn't broken, don't fix it.
CUCV Start Up
Here is a video of my M1009, the temp was around 50 deg F.
The voltmeter on the left is measuring the voltage to the glow plugs. The one on the right is the standard 24 v meter.
During the warm up time, the GP voltage is 8 volts. After start up it goes up to around 10 volts.
Once...
The card will only cycle the GP relay if the Voltage monitor circuit of the GP card detects a higher than desired voltage. At one time I did measure it, but that was years ago and I do not remember what it was. I think.....again think, some where above 14 volts.
It sounds like your original...
Your GP system is working normally. The high current draw after the engine is running is normal. The voltage sag is normal.
The glow plugs being on after start up is normal. The WIF light momentary flash issue is not normal, but we addressed that and a possible solution via PM.
After start up...
CUCV Charging Circuits
Looking at the schematic, for the passenger side alternator, it appears that the large Red with the Orange wire, connects to the Positive terminal.
The single large Red wire connects to the isolated Negative terminal.
You may want to verify the other end of these wires...
Your voltage readings are correct. The relay coil voltage is 12 v, this controls the relay. The Pink/Black wire has +12 volts on it. When you ground the Light Blue wire, the relay will close. These are the two smaller terminals.
The closing of the relay is connecting the 24 volts from the...
Looks like 1 ohm, try changing the scale to 200 or 20K and see what it reads. Are you sure you do not have the leads touching each other at the pins?
What is the P/N of that sensor?
It should be one of these:
GM part# 10045847
Old style
Napa - TS4032
Orielly - WT5133
New style
Napa - TS4015...
It looks like the wait light came on at 0:16 and off at 0:19, the card kept the GP's on until 0:40.
This is normal operation for a GP card depending on the temperature of the engine. This is the after glow period.
To check the temp sensor,
Unplug it.
Set your meter scale to resistance x 1...
I'm not sure why the water/fuel light is flashing. I think you may have a ground connection that needs some attention. The CUCV is well know for poor grounds and poor electrical connections over time.
But the low voltage and dim lights until the GP relays opens is normal.
They are drawing...
The temp sensor for the glow plug card is a thermistor. It changes resistance with temperature change. This resistance value is used to calculate the time that the glow plug relay is closed.
The high idle sensor is a switch. It is either open or closed.
Your second video shows normal GP operation. What you discovered is more commonly known as after glow.
The GP's stay on after starting the engine for a little while until the GP card turns them off.
That is one way to test it, but I read on a few other vehicle forums, that the NAPA ST81 relays have been known to fail in the closed position.
So removing the control wires will not disengage the relay contacts.
It would be best to confirm that the wires going to the glow plugs do not have...
Start the truck and verify that the GP relay is not applying voltage to the glow plugs after the proper time. It sounds like the GP's are still on.
The squealing and getting hot are both indicators that it is putting out all it can current wise. The GP system can draw 100 amps when all the GP's...
"If anyone knows a step by step engine pull thread to reference that would be super cool. Any hints and tips are appreciated of course!"
Try this thread.
6.2 Removal Guide
Check the fusible link wire at the 12v connection on the fire wall labeled ENG WRG HARNESS BLOCK
It should be the Orange to smaller Red wire connection. They can look good, so remove it and twist tug and pull on it some to ensure it is good. Then test it with an ohm meter for continuity.
It may...
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