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User error I would rule out. Otherwise everyone else would be having the same problem. You have been given some sound advise, take it and run with it and get it fixed before you do more damage than what has already been done.

You have M1009 I have M1008 on my brain because that is what I have, Your shift points are probably different then mine so I really don't know what your shift points should be. I stand corrected if I'm wrong

No doubt that must of been a plumbers truck. If you need your truck fixed just call your plumber, a great deal at only $100.00 dollars an hour.

23 mph is way to late, the vacuum modulator is easy peasy. You loosen the nut and rotate the regulator toward the firewall for a lower shift. Your existing vacuum modulator might be an adjustable type that is not adjusted correctly. I like the non adjustable type and just adjust it from the...

So all of your shifts points are good and you did not have to adjust the vacuum regulator! Amazing, I adjust mine to shift at 15 mph and 30-35 miles per hour. It gives you good firm shifts. I believe soft shifting is not good for these transmissions. Happy Days, good job.

I have been thinking the same thing. On a positive note, from the standpoint of a hobby it makes it all seem okay. There is always a silver lining. Stay positive which I know you are and enjoy the ride. Once you have it all fixed up and running good it will become your favorite vehicle.

No vacuum at all and all you have is a late shifting problem, I guess it could be worse. sounds like you will need to source a new pump or pod.

Did you hook it up to hose that goes to the vacuum regulator on top of the engine, it's hard to see on the video? Is the gauge your using used to pull a vacuum, I can't tell. I just use a vacuum gauge hooked to the line from the pump to the regulator, it looks like thats what you have done.

Come on Man, Your killing me smalls.

It is just a part in a long list of parts that Ford discontinued for the Lincoln LS. Can't run without one and a used one is over $300.00 bucks. No thanks. Only alternative is convert to an electric cooling fan. Thanks for your Diesel removal guide, good work. Also trying to remove one of those...

Yeah, I'll take a speed actuator for a 2000 Lincoln LS V-8. You'll need a torx #40 to get it off. Thanks Man..

Best price I've seen in awhile. The two options look identical, I wonder if the Standard Motor Products is worth the extra money, I believe It's Made in the USA.

It looks like a piece of art. Good job.

I hear ya! Good job, yeah that is what I meant, the head studs fit deeper into block. I know there are other reasons why head studs are used over bolts, one is bolts pull down and twist at the same time while tightening where as studs just clamp straight down without any twisting, giving a more...

I can appreciate that studs in the head can have an advantage, they can reach down further into the block and reach new threads that have not been stretched, but he said he he did valve cover gaskets not head gaskets. I'm thinking he meant he replaced the head gaskets

Why did you stud the heads, were the head gaskets blown?

Maybe if you could get some help with someone holding a pipe wrench around the puller frame you could keep it from twisting. Two pipe wrenches around top and bottom would maybe be even better.

I think most people on here believe the easiest way is adjust and test drive until you get the best performance under all load conditions while road testing. Facing the engine from the front looking down on the injection pump move the mark on the pump to the right of the blocks witness mark to...

The pump timing can need to be changed over time. General wear and tear of the engine internals, timing chain slack, internal parts of the injection pump wear and tear ect..

I am referring to the fuel injection pump that controls your timing, loosen the three nuts on the pump and line up the timing marks on the engine and the pump and it should be close. It sounds like your timing may be to far advanced. Check your timing marks.