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Well, instead of waiting to locate a different fuel pump for this unit I robbed Peter to Pay Paul. I “borrowed “ one out of my personal stand-by 10kw unit. Once the fuel system was primed it lit off. I let it run for about 10 minutes with no load. Then I began with a 25% load for about 30...

I should have said it's only when bolting down the rocker arms that the pistons need to be down inside of the cylinders. The cylinder head can be installed with no issues.

Just a little set-back on this project. I had everything back together on the engine yesterday. I'm a believer in reading the TM's for sure! They explain very well about the hydraulic lifters for the valves and how to properly bolt down the cylinder head with the pistons down inside of the bore...

Oh…forgot to mention. You’re correct. The piston crowns are .016” smaller than the skirts.

Thank you Ray. My ring gaps are more like .012” - .015”. It looks like .010” is the minimum and .020” is the maximum. My .002”-.003” measurements are the piston to cylinder wall clearances. Appreciate the input!

I know! The shipping time is amazing from the UK. This is the first one of these machines that I’ve had the head off of. I wonder how many are out there with .040” OS pistons? I wish you well on that project!

I may be mistaken, but I thought that the SN was also stamped somewhere on the tongue? As in maybe under the Jerry-can saddle?

That’s great to hear! It appears that I’ll be adding a Lisle hone and an assortment of stones to my tool arsenal because they’re already on order. I really appreciate the help here on this topic! Some more cleaning and going back together today:jumpin:

Well, not being a machinist and dealing with an engine that suffered piston and ring failure I’m a little “wishy-washy” regarding what the piston to cylinder wall clearance should be on this Lister Petter 4 cylinder Diesel engine. After watching hours of YouTube videos on this topic and reading...

I did go ahead and order the Lisle 15000 cylinder hone that Ray wrote about in post 29. I also ordered some 80 grit, 240 grit and 500 grit stones for it. Everything that I can find about piston to cylinder clearances is telling me that .002" - .003" clearance is not enough. Unless someone pipes...

Thank you. I did see that post also. No issues with the GP’s and/or S1 or K18.

I have a question for the engine guru’s. I’m not satisfied with the piston to cylinder clearances that I’m seeing with these new pistons. I have some good quality outside micrometers and telescopic bore gauges that I’m using. My piston skirts are measuring 3.392” -3.395”. My bores are measuring...

Perfect! I guess where I was going with this is that this is probably a good reason to NOT use starting fluid on these units, unless the glow plugs are disabled. It could be a problem!

That's good to know. Thanks!

I've been seeing a mix of round and square S1's. I've just always "assumed" that the glow plug operation on these units was strictly manual, turning the S1 to the pre-heat position.

Just curious. If the preheat relay is energized with S1 in the crank position is this feature temperature related? As in will K18 only pull in at ambient temperatures below a specific threshold?

Great point! LED’s don’t care about voltage.

I don’t have the pin-out for that connector. But I simply used a spare 12v battery on the tongue with a jumper wire to locate the corresponding pins. Grounded the battery to the chassis. The ground pin on the trailer will give a good spark when you touch it with the jumper wite😅 Yes, the 24v...

Also from Harbor Freight are these inexpensive pigtails. I bought a bunch of them and crimped some 14ga butt-connectors on the end of the wires. They fit directly over the top of the round pins in the military connector. Then remove the 24v bulbs from the taillight/brake lights and go down to...

I’ve actually hauled two of them on my car trailer. I’m about 80 miles from the auction yard here in Washington. I just had to position them as far forward on my trailer as I could to get some tongue weight.