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You can calculate this. The batteries have an amp-hour capacity. If it takes 10 amps to keep your truck running and you have 100Ah capacity then you can assume you can run for 10 hours. This number decreases as the batteries age. Batteries in series have the same Ah as a single battery...

I think you really need to look at the weight of the rotating assembly and it's ability to shock load the transmission. Or, consider the duty of the synchronizers. They may not be able to handle all of that inertia.

Those must be important because the blackout switch doesn't turn them off 😉

100 mph was the standard speedo for trucks before the oil embargo. My 1976 short wide would point that needle nearly straight down. I estimate 130 mph 😈. My sister's 1983 Mustang GT had a 85mph speedo. My problem on my CUCV is that the bluish plastic part behind the gauges is disintegrating. I...

I'd rather it be off by a lot than a little. That way you know something is wrong.

Make sure to look very closely to ensure that the crack isn't radial to the hole but truely coming from within. A radial crack will not seal with thread sealant. There are options but this becomes a much greater problem.

Had this happen on a Cat 3500 thermostat housing. Someone put a long bolt in the hole and cracked casting at the bottom. Nothing a bit of pipe thread sealant on the threads couldn't fix. I would not suggest putting anything in the bottom of the hole. Just don't forget which bolt it is. You could...

The resting voltage of a lead acid battery is 25.2 volts. If your meter is reading higher after a period of resting the meter is bad.

I think your multimeter is failing.

A note on the injector return lines, the OEM lines are Viton rubber, they will outlast the engine. Aftermarket lines are buna-n rubber and these are the ones that get hard and crack after about a year. I am starting to see aftermarket kits in Viton. You can also buy 1/8 Viton tubing and make...

Black RTV isn't a hack. It's what it's supposed to be. The sheet metal flanges on the valve cover are too thin to properly compress a cork gasket. They were never intended to be used with gaskets. The double ended bolts prevent you from retorquing once other hardware is attached. The same is...

The 28MT starters explicitly state no shim on the housing. The 28MT is not available in isolated ground as far as I know so you'll need to have a starter sized ground wire attached to your engine block. If you have a ground fault things might get exciting when you ground the block. Front...

My house has a main story and a mostly finished basement. I'll be using sub panels at each level. No running upstairs and down. If you need a source for conventional breakers let me know. We haven't gone arc fault or GFCI in the marine industry. Industrial suppliers are available to support...

The OEM starter is just a Prestolite starter from GM pickup trucks of the time. It appears to be isolated ground and the 28MT is not which is likely why the switch was never made. If your engine block is grounded to negative battery with sufficient gauge wire for grounding you don't need the...

Maybe people don't like Wago because they can't put tape on them. I don't know who started the habit of taping wire nuts but please, cut it out.

They can combine stranded and solid wire which nuts are not rated to do.

Before you get too gung ho on a direct injection diesel, they don't have the same rpm range and may not pair well with your gears. The 6.2/6.5 engines run more like a gas engine with 4k rpm redline and peak power at over 3200 rpm. It's only about 800 rpm off what the small block Chevy does.

My M1008 was part of a lot of 3-5 for some $3k as the seller said back in 2012. They were cheap until they ran out, then everybody realized how valuable they were.

The Rock Auto flex plates are made in Mexico and indistinguishable from OEM. I recently bought a pad mount nose cone for a 28MT starter. They are available to purchase new jf you're converting from SAE mounting. It was $17 or something. I don't know if it was OEM.

The oil cooler uses Tube-O fittings on the ends. I used threaded adapters to get from the block NPT to JIC for the hose. Then added Tube-O fittings to the radiators end to connect with the rest of the system. I know the post is about trans cooler lines. I want to add, standard hydraulic hoses...