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Looks to me a Hummwv wearing one of these... That's what I make out of it, LOL. CAMO

You guy's have taken all good guesses. LOL I'am out, CAMO

Like I noted in post #9, one has to get it up and out of the lower latching saddle. That's would be the heavy hard part with a bigger tire. Only flat on the bottom, CAMO

Big hands and gloves with 37's gets a little close to the tire when swinging the ratchet handle. (very doable) My free guess is those bad boy 40's or larger could be an issues to at least get it lifted up and out of the lower retainer/ saddle. Once up ??? guess one could ratchet it down...

Boy this is a good question with a zillions ways to go. If it was an airplane lots of procedures before first start. If ones training / mechanical skills / time and money are unlimited then... before starting... start at the top of the long list. I get the deal one can't wait to hit the road...

Here's where a "flow chart to start" would be handy. Flash - blink - on - off - hiccup - burp - fart - smoke and choke.... Don't use the box... so can't help, CAMO

At the listed price of $375.... And I don't know if that's a deal or not ??? But 16 of them works out to $6000. Thinking out loud here... seem like a simple hobby home build with the help of a good muffler shop and some expanded wire screen. One could only wish to get them on the cheap...

This is a HMMWV... Not a CUCV. 4L80 E transmission rigs are already to go. Problem are the trucks running the 60 Amp alternators or not connecting the 14 Volt lead on 200 Amp equipped rigs. The fix is add equalizer $$ or upgrade to 200 Amp alternator $$$$ or stop robbing off the 12 Volt...

How ya doing... I knew this was going to short circuit... LOL Just charge the batteries one at a time. No need to disconnect anything. Observe polarity. Don't get confused by the jumper between the two. It will become the negative for charging the front battery. (If you have them installed...

Beating a dead battery to death thread. 60 Amp alternator trucks (or 200 Amp without the 14 Volt lead connected) IMO....... One is asking for trouble when "half tapping" the 24 Volt system to pull 12 Volts. It is impossible to equalize the charging and discharging across both batteries when...

Another tid-bit "Dimmer switch".... wire #16 should be connected at the location with the "ribs or bars or lines" molded along the side of the three connections. This is the common to the switch. The #16 wire has ribs on its rubber part too. (If I remember correctly ??) The other two (should...

Starting OVER. You have markers working. GOOD. This means you have voltage to the switch. Has stated switch has mulit-contacts that switch the voltage to function/s selected. IF you have the switch in the SER DRIVE position and park light is NOT OFF... check for voltage at wire #16 on the...

Start with something you know. Bulbs/s good? Voltage to the switch connector pin F? Voltage out of switch when in proper position pin M? or then down to dimmer wire 16 ? Out dimmer hi wire 17 or low position wire 18? (could be reversed, no biggie) Could check at hood receptacle? or at lamp...

Not an expert, here or on TV. Pretty good at rolling around on the creeper with 16 inches of ground clearance LOL. Yes this is all true. The fan spins when the engine is running. The difference characteristics sounds and power required of a free wheeling verses an engaged fan can be...

All good points for any owner, operator and maintainer. If one has the $$$ to sent it out for service ...skip the next part. General maintenance of the electrical as stated can be done on the cheap. A simple 24 volt test lamp or go all fancy with a multi-meter. (and very handy around the...

Might want to isolate the problem before isolating the valve. The "hissing" sound is fluid bypassing / regulator orifice when energized and amplified being mounted to the foot well box. Doesn't take much to dampen the sound. Old bicycle inter-tube works well. Place a 0-200 PSI gauge in...

Not going after anyone's skills or abilities... just looking at the facts. Your two in service. One fails in 45 miles. So far an in service 50% fail rate and grief to suck the fun out of the weekend. I take my hat off to you for the build... and going the extra mile to test one. You'er...

That's like putting a 7 Amp fuse in place of a of a 15 Amp. Then for giggles double the HP. Something going to blow, CAMO

What's with the magic of the ground harrness? It left the factory without one and all was OK. One would think that if along the way it was missed / discovered or needed one, an MWO would have been issued. yes / no ??? Here's an idea... Get out the TM and take a peek at the electrical...

Not to sound rude, but just a note for anyone else that reads this thread and has similar stating issues. Gamble, I didn't see anywhere before this in this thread where you mentioned that you had a security device installed in the electrical system. When troubleshooting any type of electrical...