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Hi Jason, I sent you a PM, sorry it was late and I didn't think to check your post number last night!

Oh, and one other thing to check... once you verify the gage wiring and ground are good, if you disconnect the "S" wire from the gage and measure resistance from the S wire to ground you should get somewhere between 30 and 240 ohms, depending on how much fuel is in the tank. If everything checks...

No, no.... with the Wema gage it sounds like you did it correctly. I normally attach the reddish colored wire to the wire that was on the sense wire of the old gage and connect the black wire to the old ground wire, but to be honest the Wema is just a resistor, so the polarity doesn't matter...

For filters you can buy in bulk from Fleet filters or my local Oriley's was only about $12 ea. for the fuel filters and $6 for the 51515 oil. but I have a commercial account so it's probably a little more retail. Jason, send me a PM and we can talk about your needs. Thanks Ray.

For cheap fuel lines made to order I go to www.Discounthydraulichose.com and just make up 1//4" hydraulic lines with 5/16 JIC female swivel fittings on the ends. Might be overkill, but looks neat and clean and will last a lifetime.

Maybe you are misunderstanding what I meant. The G terminal is eventually connected to the negative of the battery as is the entire chassis of the machine. G stands for ground... chassis ground, not earth ground. If you put your meter black lead on "G" and the red lead on "I" you should show...

Be careful and double check the wiring on the gage. The original gages on the older 802's are different than the newer Faria Beede gages, the "S" and "I" terminals are on opposite sides of the gage, so make sure its wired correctly. Also, looking at Guy's diagram above. You should have +24V on...

If you remove the end plate, that houses the thrust plate for the internal transfer pump. When you reassemble it, make sure the alignment pin is lined up correctly with the hole in the body and the notch in the thrust plate before you tighten the screws. Also make sure the O-ring that seals the...

Hi Shane, That knob is the droop adjustment knob. You don't want to turn that at all. The knurled knob pulls off and there is a small o-ring underneath, but it won't come off without removing the rear end cap which is held on by 4 small cap screws. There is also an O-ring where the control rod...

You could try adding 1 more black shim to #3 and #4 and see if that changes the sound by delaying the injection point a few degrees. I would not change the rotational position of your temps are pretty consistent. All that does is vary the amount of fuel delivered with each pulse. A trick to help...

Hi Evvy, were those bolts 3/8" or 7/16"? They look relatively small in the picture so I'm surprised your impact wasn't up to the challenge. It looks like you have lock nuts on there, but still shouldn't have been that big of a deal for a decent impact. However, from experience I know there are...

As for the 120V single phase, yes you will have 10A available at the outlet. You also have 120V single phase available between any of the 3 hot lugs and L0 as well as 208 ( not quite 240 but close enough for most devices ) single phase between any 2 of the hot lugs. If you're using 3 phase for...

And as a word of advise, if you end up going back with the original style well nut, searching around on the internet for A3816 you will find dozens of "Cheaper" listings for "Equivalent" 3/8"-16 Well nuts from PoP Fasteners and Hillman etc. , but do not buy the cheap replacements! Stick with at...

Not sure I quite understand Dewie's previous reply.... On an 802, the 5Kw mark is at 80% on the load meter, and I thought the 802's are rated at 26A at 240V , so wouldn't that be 6240W ( at 5000' 100F or whatever condition is listed on the data plate ? ) Maybe I am misunderstanding your...

AC box is off an 002. I know the circuit breaker is different, as well as the number of loops through the CVT but I also notice the schematic in the 003 TM shows the ac outlet being wired right to the AC select switch, but the schematic plate on top of the 002 shows the wires going to TB2...

Well, a bit of good news tonight. Just swapped out the AC box and everything seems to be back to normal. Voltages are all correct and no stinky smoke pouring out anywhere anymore. Looking closer at the original AC box, it looks like all the heavy AC wires in the thing are discolored. Instead of...

Status update: Last night was an interesting time, I taped up the mouse-damaged wires in the AC reconnect box and went ahead with the initial start-up. This set has been sitting for well over 25 years.... with the notorious PSU pump in it! Cranked it up and she fired up almost immediately...

Ok, so I will begin by starting the machine and seeing what happens, keeping an eye on A4 and the generator output. Then I will disconnect #17 off the regulator, isolate it and see the result. Thanks for the guidance!

Turns out the exciter coil is good. 34.6 ohms. Last night outside in the dark I apparently put the DMM on the diode setting, which is right next to the 200 ohm setting! But when measuring correctly, both at the plug on the back of the AC reconnect box and TB3-5/6 both yield 34.6 ohms. So it...

Got it Peter, I know what to do next. I will give another update as soon as I have another change to look at it.