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Use the rubber piece. Notice the grid pattern on it's surface. That's meant to hold the silicone sealant so it doesn't get squished out.

It is recommended when servicing worn gear sets to measure backlash prior to disassembly and reset to the previous backlash number, not the specified number.

That is 100% a LockNStitch candidate. I would never consider welding that. The big question is, what do you think lead to that crack? The initial condition needs to be addressed prior to repair. I would consider an epoxy repair if it was simply the water jacket but I don't like that it extends...

A voltage sensing relay and some creative settings can get the job done. Mains are almost always 117-120V in my area. Set your gen to run 110-115V and use the voltage difference to trip the relay. You'll need a time delay relay to filter transients.

What exactly do you need repaired? I have a few outside the box recommendations depending on the repair. Also, LockNStitch sells the tools to DIY your own repairs. They aren't terribly expensive, figure $300 to get your foot in the door on tooling plus pins.

It's iron. Need one repaired? Welding is problematic. Check out www.locknstitch.com They're masters of iron block repair. They are small engine affordable despite the big projects they brag about on their website.

Yeah, don't do that. Lines come off the pump in 4 pairs. It takes 5 minutes to take them all off once the manifold is clear. If you take the lines off in sets you don't have to remove any clamps. This is true for most diesel engines.

If it has a 28MT starter, it says right on the nose cone "No Shim". The starters wear at the pad mount if you run them without the bracket. Make sure to check that. The nose cones are available aftermarket.

I guess he split our advice. I said let the head gaskets be, don't use gaskets. He left the head gaskets and used gaskets. Another note, while the valve covers and oil pan are supposed to be RTV. The front cover and water pump are supposed to use anaerobic gasket maker. For future reference...

We don't play that game out west where a jump costs the same as two batteries and you still have two bad batteries when you're done. I do new batteries every 5 years in my vehicles.

There are two sets of numbers. The specification and the service limit. The 0.005-0.015 would be specification and is what you set the clearance to be when assembling. The service limit is the clearance when the assembly is considered worn out and should be removed from service. I don't know...

A lot of people are moving away from the expensive metal bodied pin and sleeve connectors. The marine industry is moving to disconnect duty connectors. They're about 75% of the price of the metal connectors but much less expensive overall to install as they don't require a disconnect switch...

There are 3 phase 208Y/120 panels for this application. No need to split.

I put group 31 batteries in mine. I was using it as a daily driver and didn't want to mess around with oddball batteries.

Amazon has the stainless ARP starter bolts on sale for $16. I just bought a pair. Otherwise, Leroy has the whole set: https://leroydiesel.com/products/arp-starter-bolts-with-washers-12-point/

That's what happens when someone replaces the Packard 56 series (currently Aptiv) terminals with standard spade terminals. The spades don't tolerate very many plugging and unplugging cycles.

"The owner indicated the coating was designed to wear less than metal on metal splines and was more forgiving to drivelines that rarely got greased." Well, these ones should never get greased. You don't want to damage the coating. Grease has forever been problematic in splines as the rotation...

Direct drive the motor of the starter is inline with the pinion gear. With the gear reduction starter the motor is offset. Your first picture on this post looks like a 28MT which is a gear reduction starter.

It's direct drive vs gear reduction starters. The 28MT is the gear reduction starter. You'll need the bracket for that one.

It's a nylon or epoxy coating that contains lubricant. It prevents fretting wear caused by normal movements of the coupling. There are a few suppliers of these types of coatings. https://www.wrightcoating.com/specialty-coatings/processes/wrylon