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Normally no, quenching isn't a good thing. Only reason I suggested that was that our welder who always did that job for us did it. Once those plates were welded - they "stayed stuck". The truck would get new torque rods at the 7 year rebuild if the rubber had separated. Going from memory...
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I have to agree with @Soupermike and @silverstate55 ...
Seeing the complete build process really is neat.
There is a lot of work that goes into building these trucks!
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If you still have the factory start button and switch on the dash, it may be worth considering them. At least for testing purposes. Lots of folks have had troubles with a "too much apperage" situation on aftermarket keyed switches.
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Agreed and don't buy a cheap HF double flaring tool.
Spend a few bucks and get one that will last as long as you.
Mine is over 40 years old now and it still works as well as the day that I bought it.
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One of the magical parts of this website is the section called Technical Manuals. The books that you need to repair anything that you need fixed on a military HMMWV is here. That requires lots of effort on your part - No question about that. Dirty hands, oil drops on your clean white...
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Ahhh... Yes sir. Without the right tools to do that bend, buying "pre-bent corners" that you will have to weld is about the only other choice. That would require good welding and lots of grinding and "making it purty". I have seen them before and I think @chucky very recently had a post...
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I rummaged a few books that I have.
Specifically in the Shop Manual on the 19-MD model, Fuses F1 F15 F17 and Relays R1 R7 control the Boom Lowering function.
Here are the books that I have.
Page 288 in the shop manual is trouble shooting for lowering the boom. (in ShopManual 03, Printed Page...
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I would like to offer that the PTO switch - meaning PTO On and PTO Off needs to be in your circuit.
I don't think that you want the PTO and by extension the Hydraulic Pump to be on all the time. Maybe I am misunderstanding your goal, but PTO Off could be really important if you were to...
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Welcome to the Outfit!
Happy to have you here. The TM's (Technical Manuals) are here for your trailer.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/TM9-2330-213-14&P.pdf
Snap up some pictures and possibly post them here to the site. There are a few "picture hounds" here - with me at the...
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It could be worth a trip out to a local Northern Tool.
They sell a manual pipe bender. Roughly $150
Don't know if you have even bent electrical conduit or not, but there is a chart that helps you "get it right" when you try to make proper bends. I'm just guessing - and thicker wall tubing...
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Along with the weld on the edges of your plate, a 3/4 inch hole drilled in the center and plug welding that - your metal "keepers" should stay in place. Need to have a 5 gallon bucket of water to cool the metal before the rubber is smoked.
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Funny how that works. At one point in my life, I worked for a large computer company. Had a few pieces of hardware that were on the scrap list - and they were pretty important to our daily operations. We had literally hundreds of spare parts and no matter what those machines needed, our...
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I love tools so if you have magic in your toolbox - yes - Please share!
You have done a nice job on your truck.
It's exciting to see your progress almost daily...
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So neat!!
I see the shackles are in place behind the bumperettes.
Guessing that is a blackout light on the hood?
Tail lights still in progress.
Really amazing work!
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Save the old master cylinder if it didn't have to be returned for a core.
Pulling it apart, inspecting the bore, and the piston will help you decide what happened AND if you can find repair parts.
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You can't get a Form SF97 from an individual and that form is what releases the vehicle from the military to its first civilian owner. The key to getting a title will be a signed and proper bill of sale - and a willing DMV employee. Best way to make that transaction go smoothly is for the...
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