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I have had success with a crow foot, universal adapter and a long extension coming in from outside the manifold and closer to the master cylinder than the power steering pump.

Do you mean the fitting for the pressure hose leaving the pump or the adaptor it fits into that is screwed into the pump? A flare nut wrench or better yet, a flare nut crow foot socket/wrench end will work for both. I would suggest figuring out where the leak is above it first, cleaning it...

I have a pan that looks almost exactly like that. Rod bearing furthest from the oil pump complain first when there is no oil. Rods, crank and probably some trimming to get the jagged edges of the #1 and #2 cylinder sleeve smooth again should have you running again. Plus, all the usual rebuild...

It sounds like they are both engaged. Have you ever pulled them apart before just to check conditions?

How warm is warm? Try driving a bit at highway speed and the drifting to a stop without using the brakes. Then check the temperature.

I have a wind scoop that clips onto the header of my Miata. Driving around sunset gets bug parts all over my legs. I wasn't complaining about your design. I know you thought it out very well and have executed the thoughts greatly. I have the same concerns about the water ingestion...

I wonder how good bugs lubricate a turbo? It looks great, but being where you live, that was the first thing I thought of when I saw the scoop on top.

Heater hose clamp? That is pretty much right above the starter.

Glad to read I am not the only one to fail at getting the switch replaced on the bench.

I agree. I did a column swap instead of trying to figure out which of the many discontinued and very expensive switches that then needed to be installed in that nightmare procedure.

I used a washer tank from a 1988 GMT 400 truck. Bolted up on the inner fender drivers side. It has the pump in the bottom. Just short jumper wires needed to connect the stock plug to the motor.

I walked over to my GEP build project just to check before I answered. I only have a slotted hole in the top gear for the IP. I went and looked at some of my 6.2 and GM 6.5 gears. Different part numbers but, they have a round hole and a slotted hole. Either gear, the slotted hole is always...

I got almost the same thing going on with the Cowdog. I had working intermittent with the intermittent switch installed and the GM module plugged in. Of course, I had to go through I think 4 modules to get one that worked at intermittent. Then all was well for a while. Now, I turn on the...

Sorry about the pink wire comment. I saw 6.2 and answered the question like it was a CUCV. Wire #54 does the exact same function on the HMMWV.

Yes, just move that entire bracket back as I described a few post up.

Unplug all of your battery cables. The leads on the back of the volt meter will touch metal otherwise and blow the fuse at the bottom of the fuse panel. Pull your headlight switch out, reach under to find the release button on the switch itself to remove the pull handle. Or, try and get the...

You will need to move the rear engine mount back a few inches to allow a starter motor to fit. Basically, unbolt the rear cross bar from the engine and the can. The engine will sit there just fine without the rear support. Slide the cross bar back until it wants to drop off the rack it is...

One of mine does that every so often. I have a small leak in one of the fuel lines between the lift pump and the IP. I have a spin on filter. I just haven't replaced all the hoses yet to get rid of the air inlet. Mine will do as you describe. Fire up and run just fine for a few seconds...

With our cool temps currently. I think your temp gauge is off. Or, there is something not exact in the cooling system. With only 600° EGT. It shouldn’t be over 200° using mine as a guide. The Banks manual says around 1 psi boost at 60 mph with 400°-500° EGT on flat ground. I get that at 70 mph...

I have been able to get that little pin to reset by stomping the brakes very hard several times. Of course, the brakes have to be bled and in good working order at all 4 corners for this to remotely work. I also can’t figure out why stomping very hard works, but it does. Or at least it has for...