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If there are any leaks in the hub seals it will pressurize the diff and can blow the oil out of the breather. The breather is connected to a hose that's routed up higher on the chassis so it doesn't get water inside it when fording. Follow the breather hose and see if the end is wet. Hub seals...

I'm working on getting Allison Doc to hopefully program the vehicle speed outputs and shift points, etc. In my basic testing - driving around at 25 MPH my truck stays in 6th gear. It upshifts to 7th gear around 32 MPH which means it will stay in 6th around 50-60. and upshift to 7th around 65...

This PDF contains the performance curves for the C7 defense engines - including the 370 / 930 map that I can flash to any C7 computer: https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/CM20170727-49048-12302

Exactly. Higher numeric ratios require a lot of small teeth on the ring gear, or a really big ring gear. Lower numeric ratios tend to have big chunky teeth and big chunky teeth are naturally stronger. So on the deuce - which doesn't have the reduction hubs - the R&P ratio is 6.72:1. Compared to...

I agree. Have spares and carry tools. Anyone scared of the engine computer really shouldn't be - they are ALL OVER ebay for anywhere from $100 to $500. They were used in many school bus applications and with a little work you too can learn to program them - or send it to me and I would be...

Correct - I meant 7.8. My bad on the Typo. The ring and pinion is 3.9

Exactly half the current ratio of 7.8 which is 3.9. 3.07 gears with the reduction hubs give you 6.14

Are your recorded acceleration times starting out in 2nd or manually selecting 1st? How is the acceleration from a stop starting out in 2nd? What generation is your truck and what HP/TQ are your currently running? Due to the unfortunate aerodynamics of these chassis (and mine is a 1079 so...

The Meritor ring gear is 11.70" in diameter. For a comparison - Meritor rates our axles at about 14,700 lbs for the front, and 15,000 lbs for the rear. About 7.5 ton's per axle. For the non-armored trucks in civilian ownership, most will be running in the range of 10,000 to 13,000 per axle...

Exactly this. Unless you happen to have some 4,000,000 SPF sunscreen it's likely to be a REAL BAD day. Also the roads will be impassably clogged with things that aren't EMP capable. Best bet is a backpack full of gear and a dual-sport motorcycle with a carburetor. Unless you are ALREADY way...

The 3126b and C7 engine wiring harnesses are wrapped in woven stainless mesh. All DOD assets are required to conform to MIL-STD-461 and subsequent revisions since 1967 which governs their emissions and their ability to function in environments where large amount of EMI and RFI are present (such...

If you want to do local pickup if you are in Portland you could stop by my shop and pay cash or card, etc. Or I'll be accepting PayPal for shipping USPS flat-rate once I get the logistics of that figured out and which boxes and such are going to fit the job.

The mounts are shipping from the manufacturer tomorrow morning! Shipping from the manufacturer is going to add $1.50 per mount, so $6 per set. They are coming from the other side of the USA to me (OR) so I'm guessing at least a week transit time. Then I'll have pics of the final products, etc.

Yours have probably done what mine did and the lever at the motor has slipped on the splines. The motor is under the PDP and you can loosen the nut and move the lever on the splined taper drive on the motor to line up it's parking location with the wipers at their lowest point. Mine the nut was...

Oh yeah - plan to have money to fix stuff. My truck is a 2008 with 2750 miles on it (when acquired - almost 11k now) and still had 2008 tires - I got about 8k miles out of the tires before one blew out. A friend of mine has a 2003 that came with 2003 rubber and his blew out sooner than mine...

What year/generation are you looking at? A0, A1, A1R, etc? Generally speaking, automatic transmission engagement should be positive and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. You want them to lock in to gear and not slip - slippage = wear. So a "lurch" isn't unexpected on the earlier (A0)...

If they are the same rating. But a commonly available blade fuse will work just as well. I bet there's a few laying around for the having right now.

No problem. If those circuit breakers are open and don't stay reset you can try swapping them with regular fuses - if those burn out it is likely there is a short circuit somewhere. If they are set and still no heater action please reply back and we can continue further with the diagnostic flow...

The factory solution to all these problems was to replace the "lock washers" with Nord-Lock washers. They are the only thing that works for this application. Put them on ANYTHING mounted to the engine. Starter, Alternator, Pump support bracket, etc. And balance the driiveshafts.

Also - the manuals for these trucks are electronic and the troubleshooting for these systems is "interactive" and walks you through each step - is there someone your relative could talk to in maintenance to possibly get access to the manual for his truck? This level of troubleshooting is not...