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Have you been running under a load, or just running with no load? I have one that was doing something similar and the adjustment of the linkage on the speed controller was out of whack. It would randomly chug black smoke and then be fine other times. Running under a load and seeing if the speed...

If you can get the ammeter going, or use a clamp on multi meter, that would help figure this out. The wiring is pretty simple on the ammeter. 1 wire goes to the AM/VM switch and the other wire goes to one of the small screws on the CT which is under the top cover, to the right of the AC select...

I'm just shooting from the hip here, but one thing I'd suspect is a possible bad or stuck magnetic contactor inside the parallelling box. Honestly, the gen's themselves use very similar contactors and they sometimes get stuck and a good way to fix it ( believe it or not ) is to just whack it...

On a side note, your machine is probably the "Best" looking water logged machine I've seen. Looks like it probably didn't sit very long with all that water in it. I've had several that probably sat for years! My cylinder bore were pitted severely, pistons were frozen etc. Yours looks like very...

Your oil pressure is fine. MANY of them run at about 25 psi. once they are hot. I think the oil pressure shut off is set at about 18 psi. So 25 when hot and under load is considered pretty normal.

With the side cover off you will have good access to see if there's any junks in the bottom of the block, but stick your fingers up in the area around the fuel rack and the lifters and make sure there aren't any chunks sitting up on the ledge. Poke around on the internet looking for new metering...

Some other things to look for are the Quad fuse mod. , does the owner know how to operate it correctly ( if he starts it up and lets it idle run away! ) If he load tests it and touches the throttle to keep the engine up to speed... Run away! As LITD said, look for leaks especially at the fuel...

Are you planning to buy from a retail / private owner or are you planning to buy at auction? They list will vary depending on where you plan to buy and if you can see it run or not.

If you look behind the fault indicator panel, the original diagnostic plug and cap should still be back there zip tied into a bubble wrap bag. Remove the other junk as the guys indicated above and screw the original plug and cap back into place.

Everyone is correct.... you have the correct 12V plugs that you need. If you look at how they are wired you will notice that you need 12V glow plugs not 24V. They are wired in series, in other words 2 in series for an 802 and 2 sets of series pairs for an 803.

Pretty much any parts store, Auto Zone, Oriley's , NAPA , Advance Auto etc.will have either Duplicolor or some brand of self etching primer. You can even get the rust Oleum one shown above at Harbor Freight. Same with the scuff pads, they are everywhere, mostly made by 3M and Scotch ( ie...

Yes, with the IP in place, rubber fuel line attached and injector line disconnected or loose ( loose may help induce more of a spray than a dribble with no line attached ) you should get a very small spurt of fuel out of each IP. However.... 2 things. Don't use the dead crank switch, that won't...

So, which float assembly went bad, the sender for the gage or the zig zag 2 float sender for the fault lights and aux. pump? Sounds like the one for the gage, but unplugging that one has nothing to do with fault lights. As a replacement, refer to the posts that Zed254 lists and get yourself an 8...

I think you will be fine with an Mep-803A 10Kw. The biggest load you have is probably your hot water heater, assuming its a larger 40-50gl. 240V unit. All the other stuff is not a big deal. I have customers who have bought 5Kw's and run all the other stuff including well pumps, multiple AC...

Interesting, thought for sure you would have found a stuck metering pump. The pump drives off a cam follower and a little inverted cup. While the pump is out I would put something down the hole and sit it in the cup. Crank the motor by hand or with the dead crank switch and verify you have...

I know there are a lot of electrical / electronics experts that will soon chime in with a detailed explanation, but for starters are you familiar with the rotor design on these generators? I think seeing what the actual rotor and stator looks like will go a long way toward understanding how the...

I'm thinking you have an issue with cyl.3. The 15* temp difference is excessive, not to mention that the heat is very much transmitted just through the steel itself, meaning that you could have a totally DEAD cylinder and the temp difference won't be night and day with a working cylinder, if you...

Yes, that's an M50 which is still supported by Ambac. I called them a few months ago and they said the PSU pump is not supported ( other than the parts that are common with the M50. Unfortunately the plunger, drive gear etc. are slightly different. I ended up buying 2 M50 pump cores from a...

I agree with everyone above. Start by running if for a while with seafoam, ATF or other cleaner in the fuel, and gradually stepping up the load every 20 minutes or so until you get as high as you can go without it struggling bogging and smoking. Then remove the load, set frequency to 61.5 and...

2 other thing to check are: is the little G-17 strainer on the fuel pump. If you're using the same one ( assuming you still have one in place ) with both pumps you tested, make sure it's not clogged up. Also, check your oil pressure and make sure it isn't abnormally high. If this does not turn...