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You might get it to work out, maybe. With any luck he won't charge you shipping, too.

Last I heard, people were paying upwards of $450 a piece...to get rid of them. But do try contacting Scott at Expedition Imports. He just might buy them.

Haven't had that issue, yet, except for when enough air leaks prevented it from working. But when it does happen, it'll become lever operated.

Glad to hear that. I think I'm allergic to adjustable wrenches. But maybe your good tool selection should be augmented with a pair of calipers - or at least a tape measure?

I sure hope that by then you have ditched the adjustable wrenches and will use the correct tools for the job.

Are you sure you really want that rubber boot? If so, someone found them for sale several dozen posts back, at a mere $3XX.00 if memory serves me.

I'm not much help, only being able to comment on number three. If that rust bothers you, brush/grind most of it off, then with paint POR-15 or the rust inhibitor of your choice. That axle won't rust away in our lifetime. Okay, for number 10, either get a few friends together for the bed removal...

Yet.

Yeah, I suspect that General Hood would try to sneak off with my HMMH instead of the parts SEE. If for no other reason, the HMMH can raise things better than a SEE can.

Okay, okay. I'll trade you for one of your SEEs. Maybe I can learn to live with wasps, manipulated wiring and flawless paint? And I am looking forward to your assessment of what's left. Based on what's sold recently they're reaching the bottom of the barrel - and oddly enough, the prices aren't...

If you ask them nicely, they may even have the complete gladhand/hose "air stealer" set. Truckers use those to gain access to air, but they work just as well in the opposite direction.

Thanks, Porkchop! That one looks not just similar but darn near identical. Guess that means it really was a production trailer...of some sort. Sure grateful I don't have the rust issues that guy was faced with. In my case, a light spray with JB-80 got the brake mechanism to move. Hopefully the...

Okay, took a look-see, there's no identification stuff whatsoever. Judging by the parking brake design, this thing was likely built in the Forties, possibly the Fifties. Of course, the Jeep wheel bolt pattern existed before that, so it might be older yet. The hubs are not normal Jeep stuff...

Yep, just like on a trailer. Once the tanks are full you can turn off the compressor, in case it's noisy, and listen for leaks in piece and quiet.

Use the front gladhand. The red one, I think. Think of the SEE as a trailer when it comes to that part. Same hookups. Saves you a cold start, climbing, noise...all kinds of advantages.

Sooo much easier to feed it air from an external supply, don't you think?

Cons: Uncomfortable seating position. It could all come tumbling down. The headlights would be aimed far too low. Harder to reach the shifters. Pros: It's a lot quicker than to lower it all down, then raise it again. But why start it?

Yeah, but think about how quickly one could turn the FLU 90 degrees with the backhoe, as it would all pivot around the rear axle. Could be handy when digging a foundation. If I end up removing the loader, I'm tempted to find out if the backhoe could even be fully deployed without the front...

Severely overfilled?

I may get a chance to look it over a bit closer for additional clues today. Something larger was mounted on it, as the sides are formed sheet metal (kind of crunched down in the front now) with mounting holes in them. And speaking of mounting holes, I didn't measure, but it looks like it's set...