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Hello?

Been working on other parts of this project lately, but it's time to get back to the fuel system. Good news is that I've made some space to mount all this equipment. I've removed the stock toolbox and battery box from under the cab, and I'm going to reconfigure both of those spaces. Need to wait...

That's a great way to illustrate an idea. That's also a pretty standard way to mount a balanced/centered ram. I like the packaging (nice and simple), but I'm a little bit concerned about the side-loads. There are several manufacturers that have designed/built rams to stand up to those type of...

The amount of lift is irrelevant. If the tires don't clear everything at full-compression, they don't fit. Read this. (and those 53's look ridiculous)

Right, I gotcha. But one of the reasons why I'm going full-hydro is to eliminate the mechanical linkage between the chassis and the axle, so that it won't be affected by suspension travel. After I re-work the suspension, a stock-type drag-link would be a major problem.

These images are both from that series of tech articles that I linked to, but I've downloaded them, and I'm uploading them so that you can see them here.

Thanks for posting, but I want to eliminate any/all linkage from the driver's-sider frame to the driver's-side steering knuckle. That type of drag-link arrangement just isn't going to work with the type of suspension modifications that I'm planning on making to this vehicle.

Yeah, that's a cross-linked setup using two unbalanced rams, and that's basically what I'm looking to duplicate, while possibly building-in some additional safety through redundancy.

Feel free to discuss this, but my mind is already made up. Yeah, the system is similar to what you'd find in a tractor and a lot of other heavy equipment, but using components that were designed specifically for off-road motorsports. ...and that's why full-hydro steering gets such a bad rap.

Oh, that makes sense. I'll post links to where those images are hosted.

The whole "direct mechanical linkage" thing is bull****. I haven't been able to find anything about that anywhere. I'm not sure where that started, but nobody has been able to provide a source. There's just no such requirement.

No, you can get steering units with whatever kind of speed/power you want, and pick to suit your needs. I don't think there would be any need for any type of proportioning valve. If you've driven a vehicle with full hydro steering that felt like it needed something like that, I would guess that...

Links work for me?

As far as I'm concerned, that's not even up for debate. Aside from the growing number of modified vehicles that have been converted using high-performance components purchased from companies like PSC Motorsports and Poly Performance (and some of those vehicles are very pleasant to drive, even at...

Thanks? Ugh, the WHY. I guess that's only fair. Well, there are a lot of reasons. The first decision I had to make was to replace the stock steering box with... something. At the point where I'm trying to improve on anything, I like to explore the outer limits of what's possible, and then I...

Yes, I've driven vehicles with full hydro steering. Some (most) of them are sketchy, but it's definitely possible to build a system that handles well (doesn't have any slop, has some road-feel, and returns to center). And yes, I'm familiar with hydro-assist, but I don't want to go that route on...

...and did you get those towbar legs yet?

If it's not too much trouble, I'd really appreciate it. Knowing the diameter of the input shaft where is rides on the pilot bearing would also be really helpful.

Sweet, thanks for the link. I'm not even sure what all I'm going to use that PTO for yet, so I'm not in any hurry to get a pump. I was just curious.

Sure, I guess if I had an extra one laying around. Anybody know what size it is offhand? Then I could at measure my clutch alignment tool to see if it'll work.