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Installed the federal military parts Class III 10k hitch. Found out when I unboxed it and then took off the rear crossmember under my truck that I'll need the bracket for the pintle as well, as my truck had the thick cross member that doesn't use the bracket. No instructions with the hitch...

Did those pictures give you the info you were looking for? If not you'll need to be a little more specific.

And just for comparison's sake, here's a pair of group 24 NorthStar Blue top AGMs. Red circles are there from when I posted it on a different thread talking about installing a keyed battery disconnect switch on the driver's side.

Another page with battery info, pictures of stock setup about halfway down. https://gear-report.com/humvee-upgrade-best-hmmwv-batteries/

Taken from a thread elsewhere about jumping, but shows the batteries and terminals well.

Yup, unless you have some specialized reason why you need a huge amount of battery capacity with very high drain capabilities while being extremely lightweight, good old lead acid works just fine. My view on it is along the lines of "if the lithium batteries were truly the most cost effective...

True, if you can afford it, and need it, then it's worth the money. I have several customers that are off grid. One of them installed a lithium battery pack, with all the battery balancing modules and everything else. He's into that pack about 10 times what most of my other customers have...

That was a govplanet auction I won for what was just labeled as "plastic sheet" What it really was is the fiber reinforced plastic, 1/8" think I believe, in 4'x5' sheets. Have to be careful when dealing with it, as it's glass fibers, so using power saws will throw a lot of fiberglass dust into...

If you have the money, the lithium batteries really are the cat's meow, but unless you really need that type of power in that size/weight package, along with the deep discharge capability, then costwise you're better off with lead acid. The other advantage of lead acid is availability. If you...

how does the air filter restriction gauge look? I've heard stories about engines that ran fine until under a load and it ended up being a plugged air filter or even the mushroom cap on top got shoved down too far, preventing air from getting to the engine, which increased oil being pulled from...

Not necessarily. 2.73 is for the 4 speed / A2 trucks, 3.08 is the REV and newest gen of trucks, the A0 and A1 should be 2.56. There might or might not be a tag on the differential with the gearing numbers stamped into it.

You are sure it is burning oil? There is always the chance you have an issue with the injectors or injection pump. What color is the smoke coming out the exhaust?

Riv nuts with countersunk screws would likely be the best solution. For my 2 man top I used a sheet of FRP (Fiberglas Reinforced Plastic), cut out holes for the roof straps to go through, and called it good. Only possible issue I see is with using a solid mounting method you are more...

I did this type of install a few months ago and have some pictures from it in this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-fender-condenser-questions.195910/ Not the cleanest install, but it works very well (if weather is below 80 I have to run the heater as well to keep from...

I don't have any pics, mine is a 2 man truck. The piece that goes on the fender is http://real4wd.com/store/Handle,-Bow-Tailgate and picture of everything will be in the TM on the page I mentioned above. Not the best picture mind you, but hopefully someone else can show some pictures of theirs.

Do you mean that the footman loops you are looking for don't go on the bed, or that you don't have the ones that go on the bed? I'm guessing this is for a 4 man? The 2 man only has them at the outside edges. Here is the one that goes on the floor in the bed area for the 4 man top rear...

Back when I did my "red dot - fender condenser aircon" install I replaced almost every hose, fitting, and O-ring. The only thing I didn't replace was the high pressure port. Guess what decided to leak? Drained down the system today (slowly, so it wouldn't dump a lot of oil) and replaced that...

oh? What type of solution? Cutting one in half and adding a sleeve to make it longer is one possibility, but only if you are a certified welder or know one, otherwise starts getting cost prohibitive.

If you run out of other options: https://genuinehumveeparts.com/product/12338312b1radius-rod-assembly-rear List price $120, plus whatever freight is. Matches the NSN for A0 and A1 HMMWVs in the -24. Only issue we've been having with that site is sometimes they're slow to actually build the...

Checking the parts manual, for the A0-A2 trucks there were 2 part numbers for the radius rod assembly. One covered almost all the trucks, the other was just for the M997 and 1097, everything else was covered under the other part number. So either they have updated it to an assembly with a...