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Thank you for that, I hope you don't mind me borrowing it for this discussion (I did make sure to show where it came from)

And another example https://www.federalmilitaryparts.com/collections/electrical/ms75020-1

MS75020-1 just one example. https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/trailerplug.html

? The brakes on it should be overkill for the load as rated by the military. The trailer is well within the truck's ratings and capabilities. What reasons would it not be that good?

Unless you are testing it for continuity using a meter and have the switch isolated, all that tells you is that the brake lights aren't working. To use a household wiring example, you walk into a room and the lights don't work. Flicking the switch on and off isn't turning it on, so you're...

is there any other difference between the 10.3 and the true 12k/12.3 other than flange size? Wondering if a spacer can be made to fill in the flange area to make the small flange rotors fit the large flange size, and if anything else would need changed.

So what I saw was 1000psi and 1600psi actuators. 1000psi are for drum brakes 1600psi are for disk brakes. The M200 will have drum brakes.

No, there are different sizes on the flange portion. Picture borrowed from https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=288159 if you are upgrading from 7/10k, then you want the 12k vented rotors

yeah, but downside of SF-97 taking so long in some places is not wanting to dump money into the truck until you know it's licensed.

on mine right now unless I press down hard I have no brake lights. Need to adjust the engagement switch that hooks to the brake pedal. If it's just no brake lights that's a good place to start. If other lights aren't working as well then start looking more at the switches, wiring, and bulbs.

So the area of the curtain where the rear seatbelts are should have one side with extra material on it. The other side should be flat. The side with extra material goes to the rear and over the seat belt brackets, the inside wall gets cut within that area to give space on the inside. Check...

Umm, yes, that is the entire point of this thread that I am indeed going to make sure that I have brakes that function fully and to do this it would involve changing out the brakes, which will very likely cost the big bucks. I'm just seeing if I am overlooking anything major somehow with all...

probably not. The Duramax is a 12V engine, and aren't all the HMMWV gauges 24V? I know some go by straight resistance, but I'd imagine it still won't be as simple as plug and play.

Sounds like a glow plug issue to me, but I'm still new to that system. Could be fuel pressure bleeding off I suppose.

Yes, I definitely agree, it's physically doable, but definitely not ideal. I'd much rather do it the right way and get full usability from it, rather than do it "just enough" to make me the first one at the scene of the accident.

I've backed a few of the 1022s when I was in the military in the motor pool, but only because nobody else could. (would love to have a 1022, but that's definitely above my tow ratings) Also done A trains when I was getting my CDL back in the day. If I really get into a place I can't handle...

Looks like an M103/105 series trailer. with flatbed I usually saw them used for generators, but could also be cargo. Whether it's worth 500 depends on you. It's an air brake trailer (I can't see if this one has them, I'm not really up to speed on this series so don't know if the early ones...

How heavy either one of them is depends on what I'm doing. This is the main reason for making sure the M720 would have modern brakes all around if possible If I use the HMMWV I'm rated to tow 4200 lbs. My truck currently weighs about 8k lbs with the BEOD on the back and basic gear I carry...

I've looked and looked. There is nothing modern that matches the spindle design, and nothing that bolts to the backing plate mount. The current ring for the backing plate has 6 holes in it. All modern backing plates are 4 bolt for 3500 lb and less, and 5 bolt for larger than that. The...

looked up the parts I'd need for the spindle conversion. Looks like for cheap parts it would be about $1k before the welding. Using Dexter EZ-lube parts (which I like) would be a few hundred bit more. After I have the dolly in my posession I'll take off the relevant parts and talk to some...