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Thanks for that explanation! A quick google-search turned-up TM 9-2320-386-10 & TM 9-2320-386-24 on http://www.tpub.com/content/trucks2.5ton/, but they're almost impossible to read on that website (you can only view one page at a time, and have to go back to the index to go to the next page).

Hey Ken, I'd really like to do something like what you're talking about to my turbo. Would you mind sharing a bit more info with us? Preeeeetty please?

I'm doing a major round of maintenance on Mah Deuce right now, and I'm pulling my hair out - trying to find the appropriate manuals to service this thing. For instance, Section 5 of the FAQ links to LO 9-2320-209-12-1, which refers readers to TM 9-2320-386-10 & TM 9-2320-386-24 for more...

Hah. That's encouraging. Thanks gimpyrobb!

I'm just a little ways south of San Jose, CA right now, but I'll be heading down to Barstow and up to Bend, OR within the next month - so I can pick up parts just about anywhere on the west coast.

I used an M353 trailer and a 12ft uhaul box to build a cheap, lightweight enclosed trailer, and someone on here mentioned something about using an M353 trailer to make a 5th wheel dolly.

This probably isn't good, huh? I'm in the middle of changing all the fluids in my M109 over to Amsoil synthetics, and when I drained the oil out of my transfer-case I found this... Any idea what this mangled mess of little steel bits means? It's a sprag-shifted transfercase, and seemed to...

Has anybody reused the links on a bobbed deuce? Either by using shackles on the front and rear of the leafsprings or...?

I'm leaning towards taking measurements of all the flexible lines and figuring out what fittings they use, so that I can source some high-quality aftermarket brake lines.

I just posted this reply in the other thread: ...it would be pretty easy to measure the changes in the distance between the axles throughout the whole range of suspension travel. I think the important measurements to take would be, 1) at ride height, 2) one axle fully-drooped & the other axle...

I don't know, but it would be pretty easy to measure the changes in the distance between the axles throughout the whole range of suspension travel. I think the important measurements to take would be, 1) at ride height, 2) one axle fully-drooped & the other axle at full compression, 3) both...

Yeah, but the new masterlocks with the hexagonal hoop SUCK. I bought 12 of them and 3-4 of them have literally fallen apart. Save your money.

I was thinking about the multi-fuel hot-air, but the multi-fuel coolan heater might be a good option too. Gotta think about this a little bit more, but I tend to get a little carried away with this kind of stuff. Right now I'm wondering if I have enough room for both of them...

That sounds like a GREAT option. Also means I wouldn't have to install any additional ducting in the box. Tell me more. Is there a military forced-air heat exchanger that I can plumb into that and use in the cab, or should I plan on figuring something else out? Can the coolant heaters be used...

I've got a propane-fired tankless water heater that I'm going to use to heat my M109. I'll be running glycol/anti-freeze in a closed-loop to provide radiant heat (routed 1/2" PEX tubing throughout the floor in the box), as well a few forced-air heaters/heat exchangers. There will also be a heat...

$60/plate? Can't beat that with a stick!

Thicker is better, huh? That's a GREAT price for complete wheels, and the plates look nice. Let's see some pictures of the welded backside.

What are those boxes? Are they hanging from the lids?

I need an extra fuel tank, with brackets, an extra battery compartment door, taillight mounting brackets and an extra set of air tanks.

Appreciate the input, but you and I obviously have different approached to maintaining our vehicles.