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I can't help you there with the hmmwv tach. Maybe someone with more knowledge on them will chime in. I know my friend is running his hmmwv tach off of the alternator that I described. You may be able to drive it off of the speed sensor on the bellhousing. That is where the factory tach is driven...
Tilt your cab and start the engine. See if you have two, alternate blinking green lights. If so, an aftermarket tach like this will work. I'm speaking from experience of mine and a friend's 1078.
Push come to shove you could tee into one of the other lines on the tank and cap that opening off. That diaphragm thingy is your PPV valve. It shuts off around 75 psi to conserve air to your other 2 tanks, hence, the brakes.
Your fan is engaged because of no air to the clutch. It will never disengage because you removed the air supply. Are you sure that you want that? I believe the differential lock is supplied by that air also.
Well....
That's your wet tank from the drier. You have to have it to feed the other 2 tanks and have brakes....so I wouldn't cap it off.
If your CTIS doesn't work why are you worried about this tank?
Generic Rhino Lining inside of the doors.
1 inch Armaflex padding all over, including under the doghouse.
And also 3/4 inch Horse Stall Mat from Tractor Supply in place of the wood. Highly recommended.
Let me get this straight. Post number 24 is referring to the turret cover. I recommended weather stripping under it. Which is what I did and mine DOESN'T LEAK. I continued to say my hatch leaks in the corners. Why is that so hard for you to comprehend?
Gets you some good high density rubber weather stripping, not the cheap foam stuff. Mine was around 3/8 inch thick. RTV on the bolts. Mine doesn't leak any. The only water I get in mine is at the top corners of the hatch after a heavy rain. And it's not much.
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