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I mistakenly put S6 in my post above (corrected). You should be working on S8.

One other thing to check is where the wires go down to the generator head. I’ve had a couple of units showing chafing against sharp edges.

If you disconnect everything I'd test all the windings. Make sure they meet spec on resistance and aren't shorted together. From there you can choose whether to go back with the reconnect switch or make the voltage config permanent.

I would check all the wires on the reconnect switch (edit -S8 ) and see if they are in the right places.

Clamp on CTs are very common and are perfectly fine.

Anyone looking for an energy monitoring option that doesn’t require cloud services may want to check out https://openenergymonitor.org/.

I'd like to add that we may not always be able to monitor every circuit in a panel to measure load. Even if we can't, meaningful info can be determined from a usage trend from the main lugs on a panel. I've included a screenshot of the output of the inverter here at home. My emergency loads...

Understood. My number one first line thing to do if an engine has any kind of issue making power (after inspecting for wetstacking and air filter issues) is to run it on known good quality fuel. It sounds like you are up on everything so your fuel may not be bad but I have to mention it. I had a...

How many amps are you running during the load test? I suspect you are loading the machine more than you are realizing. In the video you are showing 125% on the meter with a resistive load. In reality that is more like 150% load. The load meters are set up for a power factor of 0.8 so they...

Nice! I’m looking at either a 2038r or a 3039r. Right now I have a 4200 but I need a loader and haven’t been able to fine one to fit it.

I’m shopping for one now. Planning to buy my “forever” tractor.

On a side note which model tractor do you have there?

That is normal behavior. The load meter is calibrated with a power factor of 0.8. It will read low when loaded with a resistive load.

Diesels make several hundred pounds of compression. It doesn't take too much of a leak to keep the cylinder from lighting off. The engine in the 802 will start pretty easily above freezing without preheat. Keep us posted on what you find.

I'd say the side that is black and oily isn't firing. If it were me I'd take off the rocker arms on that cylinder (exhaust first) then tap the top of the valve with a hammer. Put a wooden block on top of the valve and give it a sharp tap. You aren't trying to drive a spike so you don't need to...

Totally agree if you go with a MEP002 you're better off building an enclosure. I have a MEP003 with an ASK and it makes it a PITA to work on. I recommend looking at GovPlanet and see what they are going for at auction. The days of getting one for under a grand are long gone. I have one MEP802...

That look like its running on one cylinder. I'd check to make sure your valves are closed.

If the engine is staying cold you may get a little black smoke. How much black smoke are you getting? A little haze or rollin' coal? A short video of the exhaust would be good. Black smoke with low power suggests an issue with airflow in or out of the engine. Before you rebuilt the engine did...

Got to love a simple fix! :)

My 1081 is insured through progressive commercial.