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Its only tension held, just tap it lightly with a bud light can a few times ;). Or use a set of needlenose to softly grab the body, and rock it all around a bit while pulling towards you. They can get stuck in place, but its just sitting there being stubborn. Just make sure when you do get it...

If it were me, and I had to pull the water pump to replace this gasket, I would also replace the other adjacent gaskets. The manifold to engine block gasket, both O rings on the sleeve to the block, and your leaking gasket. 12, 14, and 15 in the drawing.

That's where the return line starts. Goes up, over the engine, and back down over the genhead, and back to the tank. Plan on removing the engine roof, and fuel tank cover, and replacing the whole thing. They ALL leak. I replace with Gates safety stripe hose and have not had a single instance of...

Do you have the TMs downloaded for this machine? I think you might want to if not, to eliminate some of the 'simple' reasons why you might not have power at the control panel. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-needed-for-the-mep-802a-5kw-generator-set-additional-information.148871/

Do you have any actual data from looking at the machine, when this happens? If the hertz gauge moves, or the voltage gauge, or anything? Perhaps its worth the effort to have somene engage a high load, when you are standing at the machine, to see what (if anything) registers.

Look on the operator control flip up panel... those details, and others, can be found there.

I am more surprised that GMG shipped from inventory (versus a drop ship) than I am that its late :LOL:

Those items are as they say 'pluck and chuck'.

Yes there is a plate and gasket that goes on top of that spring. Check in the engine bay, and on top of the muffler... Sometimes they are misassembled, other times they are gone. Its for supporting the roof where that exhaust hole is.

Is yours missing, or broken, or what exactly?

In. Thanks

I've never used the drip line. The way that its plumbed is for a GI to dump contents out and onto the ground with little care, IMO. I won't do that personally, so I see no loss not replacing it and just going with a simple bottom drain that you can use an empty coffee can to catch the contents with.

I've used the Legend line a lot over the years, middle of the road in terms of price and performance (550CCA if memory serves). I've used the Proformers too, but if I know the machine is going to a colder climate (like the one I just sold into timber country Maine) I will specify a higher CCA...

So just to confirm, when you unplug the fuel pump from the harness near the radiator, with the S1 start switch set to PRIME + RUN, you have tested the harness side connector to confirm there is no voltage present? I only ask because I just had to yank an airtex fuel pump out of a newly rebuilt...

Check out the colored DC schematic someone put together: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/5-10kw-tqg-colored-dc-schematic-pdf.888643/ It should help guide you on where the fuel pump (E2) ties to.

Much more available than shown, just reach out for particular needs: 802A/803A flywheels (104-1744) - $300/ea plus freight 802A/803A Rotor Disc Drive and mounting screws (88-20224) - $125/ea plus freight 802A/803A Fuel Tank Panel (88-20008) - $100/ea plus freight 802A/803A Operator...

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Twins aren't as nice as inline 4s... nature of the beast. Even worse when on trailers, all the rattling and inherent vibration from the machine can make it seem worse than it is.

The gauge is the end of the line, and shouldn't have an effect on tested voltage... so it was probably cleaning up the connections.