Search results

Well I got the pricing on if folks wanted to do a group buy (as I have overseen those in the past on MEP items) but I think the unit price is too much for most folks. It will be a problem in the future, but I'm not a bank. I'm still sitting on molded hose sets I had fabricated for these...

I don't know of an aftermarket drop in. Are you having issues with your radiator?

If you phase selection switch is set to 240V, then you will want the AM/VM gauge set to 3 o clock, which if you look at the markings on the face plate should denote 1PH, L1-L3 energized, with readings I believe off L3. L1 and L3 will be energized, with Neutral and G completing your wiring.

No it goes into a cavity. There is a bushing at the far end. Here is what the 803 rack looks like (blatantly stolen from an ebay listing):

I wonder if your fuel rack is bent slightly, causing it to hold position fully out (and the sound that you hear). That could account for the change in position of the block on the rack, that the rotating armature of the fuel stop lever needs to hit. Does the curved part of that shutoff look worn...

A piece at a time, then all at once :ROFLMAO: Good luck with the fix.

No doubt it has drawbacks, but its priced cheap. My vote is yellow spider box all day long, but funds don't always allow.

And to add, I always leave the very lowest RH edge bolt in place, so it acts like a swivel point for the side panel... once all others past that one are removed, you can just swing the panel up and out of the way, and back down when you are done.

Its the only way, for sanity's sake.

Cheapest option: https://ocoindustrial.com/genpro-gillette-cg03-01f-universal-military-electrical-distribution-spider-box-for-military-generators-120-240-volts-out/ Can either wire up a 30A receptacle at the machine, or wire a 30A plug out from, the lugs, and then you can directly power a home...

And its amazing what a very small but pressurized leak can do...

Don't rebuy the braided OEM line. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000 That's what I use when I do return repairs. It takes a little oil on each end to help slide the components together (since the OEM garbage line is 3.5MM, and...

This. If you have voltage, but no noise... Toss it. Do you have the cube Facet, or the cylindrical Airtex style? The latter is the updated design, with slightly different hose routing (and accessories).

I believe the contents are the same, but the wrap count around the CT is different.

Test it. Do you have 24V at both side terminals when its pulled out, and only at one side when pushed in?

There is a reason why Lister Petter has gone bankrupt so many times (and is now nothing more than a brand name for a Chinese engine manufacturer).

They will run if they have power, and are not being overriden by a fault. If you followed Kurts writeup and you dont have 24VDC+ at the pump connector, you need to determine where its dropping out.

Do you have no fuel lights on?

You need to really inspect the radiator, if that much garbage was in the system. How do the hoses look? They have wire reinforcements on the inside... those might be in terrible shape.