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Well when you took the fuse out, the gauge did read into discharge territory... And when put back in, it did move into the green (and then settled back to a neutral state). With the voltage reading, I think its all working right. Remember you got two brand new batteries in that machine. Best...

Pull the FU1 out when its off and turn it on, does the gauge register negative?

He won't run any of those if hes in 120V only, pulling 40% on the load gauge... because those are all 240V appliances. Thats why I ask the question above, what hes actually producing.

Are you using this in 120V mode only?

Share a photo of the data plate on it?

Available

What is the LRA of that particular motor?

If for any reason you are unable to access the switch, the nuclear option would be to use the battle short to have it ignore that fault... just know it ignores all faults at that point. Only use if you really have to, for as short an amount of time, as you have to.

802 and 803 have different length switches, yes. You can disconnect the switch and jump (2) pins together for now. The pins were just covered in a recent thread.

Its the norm now...

I havent bought from them on ebay, but I have directly through their site: https://surplus.saintois.com/en/mep-802a/392-gasket-exhaust-02766.html?search_query=02766&results=1

I can recommend that seller highly, even being based overseas.

Yeah even today I occasionally stupify myself either with the E Stop or Battle Short. Oh well!

Last I checked my NOS 802 (now somewhere around 70-80 hours) my oil was way down. I refilled and put some UV dye in it... don't see a leak, but I will be checking regardless after my next long run.

Fuel is too important to me, money is fleeting. I normally dose my fuel 3-4x the concentration required because I want to make sure. Of all additives.

That just means green was in it last. I think Poccur was right that it had pink in it previously. I would flush the system a few times with distilled water, then refill with prestone green and move on with life.

It will burn it just fine, but if you care about your injectors you will run a quality lubricity additive with HHO.

Some have used those thick rubber stall mats like you can get a Tractor Supply/your local grain store.

Did you back off the fuel stop solenoid 'set screw' on the block? That has to be loosened and moved closer to the radiator slightly, so the rack can be brought so the pump pins will line up with the insertion/ejection slits. Its set that way so the pumps will not readily jump out of the rack.

The batteries in his machine were installed new the afternoon before delivery.