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That's correct. And the first one fits on your hubs; 2nd doesn't... Bolt hole pattern is 10 on 11.25" (chamfered) vs. 10 on 335mm (straight).

That !!

Guessing this is his '84 M1009, he's already posted about. (Thread moved to CUCV forum)

... and the OP never even bothered to reply to any of all 26 following posts (!) Thread closed.

Yes, and not only in Germany... But the good thing is there are (height-adjustable) 3" lunette rings available, which are GTW-certified and don't cost a fortune. Here is just one example: https://www.etrailer.com/Lunette-Ring/Buyers-Products/337B20145.html Electrical hook-up shouldn't be a...

May I ask why you want a military trailer, when there are many options (with electric brakes) in the civy world? Thinking about something like this: https://kraftsmantrailers.com/sites/default/files/model_f1-16_1.pdf Their 18'+4 version would work fine and it's 2000lbs lighter than the M1061.

NSN 2330-01-387-5424 , Chassis Trailer Keep looking....... Even with a special platform to fit a HMMWV, that single axle trailer in Q. would be seriously overloaded! Nope.

Tire beads should pop off with no effort at all, since these 16.5" wheels have straight 15deg shoulders with no safety hump. The only way they could get stuck is if there was severe rust built up.

I do, too.... being that everything else of the brake system is covered in great detail(!) Exception: this old TM 9-2320-211-35 (pub.1964, last change C5 in 1978 ) shows this parts diagram and repair procedures (pages 248 & 249). No mention of any check valve and/or spacer, though....

Too bad you didn't get the new-style gaskets from Seco... I don't think that the dowels are the culprit. If I had no other choice as to use the early OEM gaskets, I would at least anneal the rings (450-500°C = barely red) to get them nice and ductile. Also make sure that the torque wrench is...

Military or civy doesn't matter: only the very early 6.2s had the (coarse) M24x2.0 threaded injectors. From 1983 on, all 6.2L engines have injectors with the M24x1.5 (fine) thread.

No worries.... 1) The T-case's (static) oil level is way below that point. 2) Everything that keeps the oil inside the TC (while in motion), is still there. Take a look at this diagram: Parts 7 & 8, as well as most of the adapter itself are still in place. There is a small oil seal fitted...

Careful what you buy: besides replacing the cable, what you also need is a new "speedometer drive adapter" for the TC. (TM9-2320-361-34P, Fig. 326) What Eastern is showing in the pictures is actually the tachometer drive, which mounts on the front of the engine. Two different things.... Even...

Nice video!(y)

Patience and squirt soapy water where the prybar opens the gap. Just keep going all around, prying every 2-3 inches, it will pop up eventually.

http://whiteowlparts.com/store/store.php?crn=228&rn=635&action=show_detail

Absolutely, yes.......! Anyone trying to re-invent the wheel by using alternative substances for said purpose should at least read "Point 2 - Prior Art" in the attached PDF-file...

Safety first! You sure had a large pan placed underneath your tank, to catch up to 80 gallons of diesel right...? You were very lucky: normally, fuel tanks are pressure tested at 5psi maximum. 100 psi is more than enough to cause any fuel tank to permanently deform and most likely, crack open...

Not on the linkage; it's on the TC shift shaft itself.

It's 9/16 UNC (12 TPI)