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For what it's worth - I wouldn't fret about drilling holes in the frame without a mag drill. If it's heat treated, it's not very hard. Only drill the vertical section, keeping a fair distance from the corners. Don't drill the horizontal flanges.

You can buy these steps for $630k and get an expedition truck for free. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/acela-6x6-with-slrv-expedition-box-new-build.214505/post-2830356

I'll second that. One of the first things I would do is replace the CB's with fuses.

Enlighten me, I don't understand the PDP comments. Why would anyone prefer a printed circuit board (A1) over serviceable modular parts (A0)? https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/datasheets/automotive-fuse-holders/powr-blok-modules-datasheet.pdf?la=en

Wix 57131 and there are dozens of alternates to that PN if you prefer a certain brand.

DAP weldwood hhr contact cement is what you want for glue, standard in custom car audio shops. I don't know about pre-treating plywood. MDF is all I've ever used, it's about 100x easier to work with than plywood.

I think you're looking for something like KCT or Outbound. https://rre-global.com/ is the USA Outbound distributor. Expect about $1200-$1600/window with shades. Outbound publishes prices but after EU tax (which is ridic) and freight to the USA, they are nearly double the listed cost...

Here are a couple switches for the mirror adjustments. You'll have to use a separate switch for the heater. For the heater, you could use a spring return switch with a timer relay so you don't leave it on indefinitely/accidently...

For anyone in the future; there should've been a yellow un-used wire in the mirror that I assume is specifically for a light/turn signal.

I'm admittingly ignorant in the subject but it's my understanding that registering your vehicle to a business subjects you to DOT regulations. A 'company vehicle' with a high GWVR could be a much larger ordeal than you might think. You might expect: CDL required, DOT registration ($300)...

If I'm understanding this correctly, it's ingenious. You've got my attention, gitrdun!

A lot of naysayers for a DIY focused forum.... I popped one out almost entirely by myself with a helper for the last little bit (2 hours). It took 2 people outside and 1 person inside to rope it back in (1 hour because it took 2 tries). No suction cups required, reused the old gasket. I...

Yep, they're M20x1.5 and if you're interested, the tie rod is 7/8-14....because that makes sense. Wheelspinner has the ticket. You need a bigger hammer (don't hit the threads). You can heat up the tapered part a bit.

If you figure out the thread size/pitch; JW Winco and McMaster have a good selection of knobs. We're all gettin old, bud. I put a light/magnifying glass in my garage a year or so ago. I have a couple pairs of safety glasses with magnifiers. 🧓

Use it in a parts washer?

1 set please. Thanks!

Talk is cheap. Only one way to put this to rest :D Sign me up for a set. Sounds like 4 down, 26 to go. Thanks for managing this group-buy!

Just make sure you hook up the batteries correctly and move on. 1 less component to fail & 6 less connections that can come loose. ;)

I know this is an old thread and the OP is probably long gone. Without special permitting, the max length for a single unit vehicle varies state by state with a common limit of 45ft. So, to answer the OP, figure the max length of the box 35-37ft depending on if you move the spare tire or...

Maybe this will help someone from having to flip between half a dozen pages in the schematic. Apologies for any mistakes and/or for not having finished it. Feel free to send me changes and I will make corrections, if needed.