Search results

Using 100% diesel mine would damn near instantly start When using 70% WMO, 20% diesel, 10% gasoline, mine takes about 4-5secs to start with a slight pedal input.

Have you removed the fuel shut off cover yet, and associated linkage to verify it moves freely and correctly? A very common 5min job could save you an hour or two from pulling the HH.

But did you check it INSIDE the injection pump? My vote is still a stuck fuel shut off…

I’m guessing a sticky/stuck fuel shut off

$180/year here in Ohio with Hagerty. Fully insured, no mileage limits. Plus one free tow within 100miles. Insured for 3x my purchase price and an extra $1500 in “parts”. I even have standard plates, not “Historical”. Which means I’m not even limited per the state on when I can drive it.

Same for me, I ended up getting 10 tubes of Napa chassis and wheel bearing grease. If I recall I used roughly 4-14oz tubes on one side.

Send it my way, I’ll weld it up for ya…free

I’m not to terribly far away, but I’ve only rebuilt my main shaft as my 4/5 synchro exploded and kept it jammed in 5th gear.

Edit:delete

Wanted… (2) m35a2 windshields. Good glass, no or very minimal rust PM with price… Thanks, Dane

Here’s mine…

Just seen your earlier post, I apologize! I was reading down through the thread and by the time I posted my reply, it updated and you had already responded!

Same, I want to know!

That’s probably what I would do since I have the tools/welder to do it. I’d buy a few bends, cut out what’s needed and weld it back in, or find a cheap prebent section(if cheaper) and also make it work

No need to pull it, turn the small jackshaft between the trans and transfer case. 5th gear, Low

I’d be interested in that price! Shoot me a message if you don’t wanna post from where

The difference is where the adjusting nut is and where the adjuster contacts. Supposedly it contacts at a different angle, causing a slight change is ratio. I haven’t compared mine yet

When I went from 9.00 to 11.00 ndt’s my truck is all over the road. Looks like I might have to do some grinding

I’m not sure the break-ins specs for this engine, but at least the few gasoline engines I’ve built/rebuilt we would limit high RPM’s and stay out of boost for a few thousand miles with oil changes frequently.

If it’s just power to a blower motor, something as simple as this could be used. Essentially the same as a dimmer switch for your home/ceiling fan/lights/etc.