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Well, the printed circuit part sucks… I do not know what to tell you about that. The left front side marker update is weird. I will dig back into the wiring diagrams for that. Any luck checking wires for the right rear?

Hello all. I managed to get my generator wired up today. Then I re-installed the PTO. Everything works perfectly! If anyone is trying to upgrade their M1031 to an APECS4500 controller, I now can program the controller from a known good calibration. When I turned the system on, it took a moment...

Ok. This is getting fun. First, let’s figure out why the right rear turn is on with the left turn. Please first unplug the instrument cluster and double check that the printed circuit sheet is aligned with the connector socket correctly. Then plug it back in and retest the lights against the...

And for @b4thundr for doing all the hardwork way back when!

A special thanks goes out to @Skinny for making the calibration file happen!

GREETINGS TO ALL!! We now have a functioning calibration file and I can program controllers! @wrenchturner6238 @Save1031s @alpine44

Good evening, I am attaching a picture of a checklist of the lights so we are both understanding the same indications. based on the switch settings just put an "X" in the correct column and save as the same filename with CHG1 at the end of the file name. That way we can change the CHG number...

All hooked up for a flag retirement ceremony at VFW 4252 in Hernando FL tomorrow.

If none of the rubber fuel lines have ever been replaced, now is the time.

I have been rereading the posts. When a turn signal is turned on the front bulb and side marker are supposed to blink alternately.

I would consider it, depending how well they came out.

The next time I go out to mine I will poke my head under the dash and get some pictures of mine.

Are you talking about the shell all the lights and guages are mounted in?

I researched the diagrams again. The light for the voltmeter should NOT share a ground with the voltmeter, that wire goes through a relay to get to ground. The voltmeter light and the heater control light are on a circuit together. The ground will terminate at the firewall with all the other...

Good looking truck! I am more interested in the M1031 you mentioned. Any pictures or history/status of it?

For the bulkhead connector I use an electrical connector spray cleaner available at any parts store. Tall red can, cannot remember the name. in pic 2, if I am looking at it correctly, the wires in your hand are for the light for the volt meter. It is sharing a ground with the voltmeter...

Just a thought, you can also check the continuity without the bulb. Just check from each side of the bulb socket to the corresponding wire at the bulkhead connector with the bulkhead connector disconnected. Front bulb removed also. How is the snow?

Just looking at the wiring again. If you take the bulb out of the left front turn/marker you can check for continuity on the bulkhead connector on the LT BLU -14A and the BRN-9A to test the sidemarker circuit. Disconnect the bulkhead connector first.

All of the rear lights share BRN-9A for power. There may be one weak point in all of this, the fuse panel itself with the bulkhead connector. Have you done anything to take it all apart and clean all the contacts and tighten up the fuse connectors? I have completely gone through the whole thing...

I have been reviewing the wiring diagrams. The voltmeter light is strange, but as it is supposed to be connected to the light for the heater control also, please see if it is blinking as well. Power for that circuit comes from the light switch to the bottom left fuse then provides power for all...