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On my FLUs the switches have always worked with the hand throttle low enough that the engines barely stay running. And as I recall, the high idle switch should take the RPM to about 1,800 - in other words, lower than what you're about to test with.

Nice! Do take the time to clean up all exposed cylinder rods before playing with the loader or backhoe. Many has had to replace cylinder seals that were ruined by dirt or paint.

A man has to know his limits, they say.

I can relate. These things are fun, and there's a lot to learn. I love learning.

I get the occasional email from him, but he's definitely not active here anymore.

Actually, the 32-footer is a bit better equipped, except for the hydraulic jacks. It also has a full Blackwood deck. Maybe something else, too, that I can't remember.

A new one with the same options is supposedly about $36K now. If you can find one for 22, grab it and run. When searching for a longer one about a month and half ago I couldn't even find one with air suspension, disc brakes, and the hydraulic dovetail. So I ordered a different brand, this time...

According to the dealer I bought it from it's worth about $30K. But he told me that about a month ago so it may be $32K now, the way trailer prices are going.

Sorry to hear that. Three guys I know has had their houses etc. burn down within the past several months. Mine burnt down a couple of years ago, but thankfully after I sold it. If you're "rebuilding" things other than the house, that 32-foot trailer will be for sale soon as I've ordered a new...

No need for waiting. Find one, go get it. Some disassembly may be required.

Nationwide searches are our friend. I picked mine up some 1,300 miles from here.

I don't think the parts would be particularly expensive, but you'd likely be disappointed with the resulting performance. For example. my snowblower (a low flow version) is technically within spec for the FLU's hydraulics, and it worked. But...to keep the engine turning at a high enough rpm to...

As you work your way through the thread you'll come across the pressure and flow rates for the two systems. At that point you'll abandon any thoughts of using the front one - other than for the loader and the tools it's designed for. Heck, it doesn't even run the loader very well.

You won't be able to run anything meaningful off the front hydraulics. I ran a snowblower off of the rear hydraulics for a few years, but if I did it again I'd put valves in the circuits instead of having to switch the quick disconnects for the backhoe twice a year.

Thinking more about it, I'm no sure I've ever tried the wipers before.

Today I wanted to use the SEE that gave me all kinds of grief (fuel system, primarily) when I first got it. After it sitting for maybe three months, including in -22 temps, I didn't really know what to expect. Well, it started up instantly - once I remembered that I have to push in the switch...

As I recall, the line comes from the top of the axle housing, then the rubber portion goes to the backing plate. Much like a typical brake hose.

That makes two of us.

If so, put a valve in the line so you can turn the air on when/if you want to pressurize the axles.

Hydrostatic drive is the only other version I've even come across, but that doesn't mean others don't exist. And if you want to confuse a typical car driver, have them drive an MB 4/94 with the working gear option. There really isn't room for any more levers between the seats on those.