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I have 395/85 R20 XZL on M929 dump. They do have the run-flat installed. What is the track record on those? I thought about buying another set, but maybe the ole standard 11.0/20 Hawk or Armstrong is the way to go. I'm really looking for reliability and durability. Some local VFDs told me they...

I have fuel pressure leak at the first inlet into the pump governor. I can see it (slow) drip fuel where that head end piece mounts to the governor body, I believe. Sorry, I don't have the part names committed to memory. Anyway, I loose fuel pressure in a few hours. There is no gasket between...

I always try to put 110% into everything I touch. Or say...:-P

Was I off on the numbers too? Shoot, that's normal I guess. FUBAR!

Well, **** yes! I think the NAPA solenoid was $40. Shop supplies = $30.00 Four evenings of Bud Light = $60.00 Research & development = $100.00 Taking off & putting back 5+ times $100.00 Not knowing what the **** I'm doing = $100.00 Not paying attention to forum post instructions (lost time)...

Sergent Major, that's nice clean reconfigure. Are those caps are diodes? Look like diodes...

Yeah, 10/4 on that.

Now that I think about the labor involved, I would buy a control box if your not interested in the repair project. Actually, it is a lot of work! I did it to learn something though. The first one is always the hardest to do. Honestly, I have many hours of diagnosing, take down, fabrication, put...

I say rebuild! My rebuild went just fine. Now that I know how to do it, I can get myself out of a (dead start) situation. From now on, I will always keep a set of rescue jumper wires in the tool box. Knowing how to jump-start from the harness, or right on the starter is a must! It could save you...

Hey, thanks for the good info. I replaced my batteries yesterday, I should have done it last year when I noticed slow first crank. I probably put some stress on my control box and starter with weak batteries. I plan to trace through the control board circuit today. I cannot visibly see any...

Yeah, I got it started using the jumper. I just need to go back through all the CB testing procedures again. It could be the circuit board. My switches and wire leads test good. I will start at the battery switch again and trace everything down stream from there. Thanks!

Hey I apologize. I read your reply again and realized that I needed to find post #20 and read up from there. I had so much going on in my head that I did not pay attention to your instructions. I'm still having issues, but I will figure them out. Your instructions and electrical schematics are a...

Where is "running motor start safety) switch? I'm still having a problem somewhere? Also, I just finished trying a "jumper start" with shunt across C & D. I get ignition power to low-air and parking brake light and audible, but no crank? I'm not getting any life from the repaired 929/A1 control...

I was reading through some of the old posts and found some good information. One thing that caught my eye is the subject of grounding. I found through experience yesterday that the case of the control box has to be grounded to the truck. There is bare metal at all four bracket points. I just...

Okay, another member provided a schematic and some info.

Hey, I went to the link you provided. I did not find any instructions or diagram posted. There is just a minor conversation about his solenoid getting hot after jumping. Nothing useful here...

The ST88 is the battery switch solenoid, and the SAZ -4401AA is a double-pole solenoid/relay with the (I) initialization & (S) start contact poles. NAPA does not have this exact relay and could not cross reference this part number. They did have the ST420 which is the exact same relay w/o the...

The ST88 is continuous. I believe the other one is too. If anyone knows more about the other solenoid and part # and voltage, sound off. I won't know until I cut it out. I bet it is the one that has gone bad, but I'm just guessing until I get busy.:confused:

Actually, $100.00. The ST88 was $80.00 at NAPA.

Got both solenoids. Not sure about the part # on second one. Assuming it is an ST43 which is 12 volt. I'll have to cut the original out to see the part number. I'm going to review the schematic and test on the bench first to see if I can isolate which one it is. Hopefully it is one or the other...