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I used to use Techron D a fair amount. After some problem engines not getting especially better, I found had more luck with SeaFoam, but I really think it depends on what your particular engine is dealing with. PEA (PolyEther Amine, not what the author above claims in the link above), is a fine...

SI-1 is gasoline only. https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/SI-1_PROD_INFO.pdf +1 on SeaFoam, and also Optilube Summer+ for lubricity. Many of these engines were not designed for ULSD, and benefit from additional lubricity additives to modern fuel to make up for the loss of sulfur...

With "new to me" equipment, you never quite know what happened. The MEP-803A was manufactured in '06, and the oil filter was changed last year at a little over 22 hours. So I drained the coolant, which looked ugly, green/orange and cloudy. (No photo) I got 5 quarts out, so I felt pretty good...

High frequency arc starts help, but copper is pretty easy; it just sucks heat out. I would try a few practice runs on a similar sized wire first. If your brazing rods need flux, I would use a non corrosive flux given how close this is to electrical parts that might care... FWIW...

Sorry! Local welding shop? Easy to do with a torch, or better yet a TIG welder. It might have been silver soldered. (High melting point and high conductivity.) I would be tempted to replace the wire if you can get to the other end... All the best, 2Pbfeet

Yes, Lee looks like it could be a doozy, and might graze New England. Stay safe! I would be curious how the deadening mat changes the dB, and the pitch. All the best, 2Pbfeet

I got mine from McMaster, because I wanted the EPDM for ozone and diesel resistance. I'm sure that the Yanmar versions are better, but my local Yanmar is a little...difficult. I bought some of the SBR versions a few years back and they did not last, at least for me. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Sweet! You must be very happy. I admit to a small smile when I saw the Racor and its mounting. I really like them. They just work. All the best, 2Pbfeet

In the Yanmar parts manual that I have, there is a copper washer, and it is called out as a nozzle spacer. In the manual that @Guyfang posted, it is part number 114295-11470 , in figure 2, part 16. I believe that it comes in a range of thicknesses from 0.3mm to 1.5mm, and the factory...

Thanks for posting the video. Personally, I prefer to finish bleeding all the air at the injector, but that's just me. In my experience, those engines are very sensitive to any residual air in the high pressure line, and don't have much power or stability until the air clears the high pressure...

I have to say that the first upper photo in post #8, the upper left corner looks like that corner of the board sat in salt water for a bit, and those two capacitors at the top look a little "droopy" like they might have melted a bit. Definitely armchair quarterbacking. I have brought back a few...

I think that you just need a little more of the label on the second picture to get a model and serial number. Most data plates aren't easily removable, but it might be behind the service cover. Trane normally has them on the outside, and I can not think of a legitimate reason to remove it. With...

A front end loader tractor with quick mount forks.

Old thread, but wow those funnels, or their clones are great for the sideways radiator neck on the 803As. There was a fair amount of sludge in my coolant, more in the first distilled water rinse, and getting better on the third rinse. I just used a long closed end wrench to put over the top of...

I just used a 6x6" under the rear end, and it seems to drain almost all of the oil out. (Less than 0.1Qt left) Having a forklift helps... @csheath Doing the math on the STP, it seems like the STP gets the oil to just shy of 20W50, so I suspect that either your oil pump is on the way out, or...

Thanks!

Congratulations on getting the oil pressure up. Can I ask which STP product you added? All the best, 2Pbfeet

With that many hours (running, and standing around in Florida humidity) on the oil, I would not be surprised if your oil is just degraded. Water (humidity) and oxygen are hard on oils, and additives. Fingers crossed that changing the oil solves your problem. I am personally in favor of more...

If you are the curious sort, you could take an oil sample for testing when you do the oil change to see what viscosity you are at. Trying to change to a 20W50 oil won't do much for you. The difference in viscosity is not much when hot. Since your unit has always had low oil pressure, I would be...

Sigh. Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks for the warning. I just lost a tank filler neck nut back there, despite having a magnet on it, and then fishing for it. I will add it to my do list; it seems important as I would hate to try to find a tank on short notice...