Search results

A shackle flip will give you the best and easiest lift while also helping with flex. I went with a zero lift shackle flip from totally naked auto (local guy to me) and 6" long shackles from diy4x. Also check this place out for custom drive shafts since it sounds like you can't find a...

Before I went to a d60/14b, I had 2* shims for my 2" lift. My yoke was further out than originally but still had plenty left in the housing. I cant speak for a 4" lift because I've never owned one and haven't felt a need to go higher than 2". I like low center of gravity and being able to park...

I thought you said they'd take it back for free? If you're looking to actually go offroad with this then get rid of that non flexing rough country junk. You could do a 52" spring up front and get you your 4" of lift (aka put your stock rear springs in the front). Then get some 56" springs and...

youll quickly learn that there are some who are abrasive and very quick to judge. There are plenty that aren't and like to have fun with their cucv's. Also, I've used a quart of 2 stroke oil in every fill since the day I got mine years ago and has never been a culprit of smoking. I think...

I also add 2 cycle oil to mine and the only time it smokes is above 9-10k feet. Is it getting up to operating temps? Does it feel down on power?

You can, just not with ORD parts.

Forgot to add that $700 is insane for a cv shaft. I think mine was $350 with yoke at a reputable driveshaft shop. They just wanted a few measurements and I got it next day.

I have 2" of lift and (almost) never had rubbing issues with 33's even at full stuff. I did buzz the rear corner of the front fender barely at full turn and full stuff once on the trail but I try not to get in that situation. Now I have the same lift but with 35's and I just clearanced mine...

There's only one SYE kit I know of and it involves drilling into the output shaft. Id go double cardan shaft and move the spring mounts so the pinion points at the yoke. That's what I've got with my axle swap and it's much smoother than it was stock.

Just measured. Center of u joint to center of u joint is about 29.5" long on the stock shaft.

I can measure my old shaft center to center if that helps. A longer shaft is currently needed as yours sits. I'd bet any major or sudden droop would let your yoke come out of the t case. If its a factory u joint then you just put heat on it till the plastic worms out around the caps. If it's...

Also, so what angles are you getting? Yoke to driveshaft and then pinion to driveshaft

That yoke looks like it's about to fall out. Yikes. What about shackle angle (pic), total length of spring and eye to pin length? something is certainly off but not quite sure what. I only have a 2" lift on my m1009 and I used a zero lift shackle flip and then an extended shackle to get...

I'm not going to quote cucvrus but I'd be pretty pissed off at buying a listed acdelco part and it not be made by acdelco, wether the acdelco part was made in China, Taiwan or Hungary.

Post said pics

Next time don't buy China garbage. The pinion angle should be 1ish degree less than the yoke to driveshaft angle because under accel it'll increase. Best case solution indeed is a cv style axle. Shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks to get made.

My front one didn't move at all and the rear I had to move back and towards the fender which meant I had to cut down and rework the legs.

Same here. I have it smack in the middle under the tailgate handle. Been there for years.

Looks like maybe just a v band clamp. Much better than a 3 bolt and a donut gasket.

Looks decent too. I ended up just filling and coating mine with silicone