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When the servo heats up it extends out pushing the C forward to close the valve, as long as the C is pushed as far forward as it will go and you snap the servo back into the holder to hold forward pressure on the C you should be great.

Pop The servo out of the holder ( has 2 metal fingers holding it in place) push the unit forward to close the valve and snap it back into the holder in that forward position. That will hold the valve closed so you have AC . no coolant loss at all.

Allen wrenches are cheap, when one starts to strip I push the wrench in as deep as I can and tack weld the wrench to the head of the bolt, the heat of the weld tends to free up the threads. When it comes out cut the bolt off and your wrench is just a little shorter.

Could the torque converter be unlocking causing the engine to rev up / feels like a downshift ? Possible adj or replace the switch on the brake ?

On my unit the rear evap runs with the rear condensers, front evap fan runs with switch. If your rear evap is cycling on and off with the condensers chances are the compressor is also cycling. This could be low on freon or a bad high of low PSI switch.

Run it down the road with the fuel cap off in case the tank vent is plugged. If no change simply put the cap back on, if it runs fine start chasing your vent line.

you may want to look at a set of 6 point sockets for the high torque bolts, the std 12 point have a nasty habit of rounding corners off.

if your looking for plug and play, this is the ticket. https://www.camoteksystems.com/

So far So good, but time will tell.

FYI Camo, Bruce finally retired from Tharps fuel shop a couple of months ago. Shop still running with people he worked with for years but I think you mentioned him by name once so I thought I'd let you know. Randy

When you pull the glow plugs, look closely and see if any of them look wet. The black on the end of the plug should look black dry and chalky. If not you could have a leaky injector on that cylinder which will cause smoke.

You have 3 lines at the valve, one goes to the fan, that one will be eliminated take the valve out and couple the remaining 2 lines together. If I remember correctly the fittings are 3/8 pipe thread so you just need a 3/8 pipe coupler to hook them together and your set

I think your looking for #11 P/N 6015457 Runs from the seal plate for the front evap to the rear center mount evap. Edit: Kascar real 4wd has it for $76.44 and a picture of it on their site.

this was pretty strait forward, could not use my original fan and you will have to cut down the replacement fan. Use a Hayden Fan Clutch P/N 2839 or USMW fan clutch P/N 22613 (Cheaper option) For the Fan AC Delco P/N 15010202 or Dorman P/N 621-514 (cheaper option) same fan. I did trim leading...

Those numbers look like it is now over charged to me, on an 80 deg day I would expect to see maybe 20 over 180. From your description above, if it were your AC I would have expected the system to be empty from a blown hose or o ring. You may want to look over your cooling system if the coolant...

I took off a perfectly functioning hydraulic fan clutch and installed a viscus clutch some time ago, Why? although it is true that the hyd system locks up 100 % and the viscus system only 80% the viscus system unlocks to 20% instead of 0% so there is always air flowing. It gets hot here not...

https://genuinehumveeparts.com/product/5929744yoke-adjustment-kit also found it at AM General Site

Its been a long time since I had the 90 deg adapter apart, But I seem to remember that you can put it together in a way that reverses the rotation. Your cable may be long enough to hook directly to the TC just to make sure that corrects the problem. Edit: I think you can remove the output...

I don't see how you could get to the other side of the tail shaft with that gear to make it spin backwards. check your 90 deg adapter.

You can also just unsnap the coil from the holder push it forward to close the valve and snap it back down to hold it closed.