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The regulator is built into the tester. On an aircraft, you hold the prop at TDC to test leak down. In a truck, you would need a way to hold the crank at TDC.

In aircraft, you put in 80 psi and anything above about 68, is good for leak down. It should be in the 70's

I kept WMO and WVO or in this case NVO separate. Since I know each one mixed with diesel or JetA works fine, I didn't want to chance some unforeseen or potential problem. I always had enough of each to not need to mix them.

My buddy had a big Versatile 4x4 tractor with dual wheels on each corner. Don't remember the model as it was a long time ago but it was in the 400 HP range.

If you are talking about the sticky clay/mud like the gumbo they have over in ND, you are going to need something with tracks or a large 4X4 tractor to get you out. What do you use now? Maybe you said and I just missed it. Oh, and welcome from Florida.

At this point you have nothing to lose by trying the sealer. You can't run it with coolant getting in the oil. The best way to go is pull the heads, that's the only way to see if they are cracked or warped. Also check the block is square.

As far as two trucks pulling a heavy load; heavy haul trucks regularly use a pusher to get a heavy load up a grade or to have enough power and traction to move the load. As long as the transmissions are in a gear that gives similar rpms in each truck, the HP would be similar and there shouldn't...

Can't we all get along?

Maybe a dirt ramp at each location if you have room for it.

Where it is I can't get any good pictures. It's the same as the pictures in the OP. What is your question? The hook up is pretty straight forward. The stator only turns on the 12-24N so if your alt has 3 stator wires, I would hook up just one of them to the 12-24N.

Well after looking at my M915A1 today, guess what I found on the back of the alternator! I'll be emailling my buddy tomorrow to pick one up for me so I have a spare!

Get a ratchet strap and put it around the outside of the tire in the center of the tread. Tighten it up until the beads are pushed out against the rim. Remove the valve core and stick the air hose on it without the fill attachment if your air hose quick release valve will open (you need a...

They both have relays and breakers.

Karl, my M915A1 was rebuilt and has the manual reset breakers. If I'm not mistaken, the auto reset breakers are in the same panel. I like the idea of resetable breakers so you know there's a problem. The relays look like commercially available items. you can swap them around to check if you...

If there are not a bunch of loose unconnected wires in that compartment with the relays, I would say it has been relocated. Does the truck run and have working lights, etc.?

I used about 1.5 gallons to paint my M929 but did not do the inside of the cab. I sprayed the exterior and rolled the inside of the bed and cab guard. The Behr covers well and is easy to work with.

I put the thick one in and I'm not changing it!

I didn't find anything useful searching for information. If you google TCO-15-7 tachograph, you will come up with several auction links. Good luck, if you find a tm please post it.

Shouldn't draw 50ma. If it does, it's more than I want to see.

My M915A1 killed the 12 volt tapped batteries. I trouble shot it today. I pulled the breaker panel and disconnected the leads that supplied 12 volts to breakers 1 and 5,6,and 7. With all the leads disconnected on the supplies and other feeds off, the parasitic amp draw on the battery 12 volt...