Search results

Went ahead and pulled the left rear. Inner bearing packed thank goodness. Isn't that odd? Just dropped the right side hub and bearing in parts cleaner to soak a bit before cleaning up for inspection; the left side looks good. Headed into town for some scotchbrite pads and such to see...

I don't know the military history. Previous owner was the City of Mercedes, Texas—

Pulled the right rear to replace all the seals since the CTIS is showing gear oil at the banjo bolt. It looks like that may have been a blessing. In inner bearing and hub seal look miserable. We'll clean it all up in the morning to start planning next steps. Hoping the spindle cleans...

We disconnect batteries when working on starters and alternators, believing the greater risk is to electrical system if the disconnect is flipped on a whim. I'd rather buy an alternator than an ECM—

Keep us posted, please. Rick did our tune, we need to add the sensor, too—

I have been meaning ask about this. I thought I'd read somewhere here there was an added sensor for the 330hp tune—

With the LBCD and remote disconnects removed wouldn't it be better to have the alternator connected to the battery side of the manual disconnect rather than feeding directly to X1?

For the 2 battery diagram using the one above: DELETE BT2 and BT4 with their connections to BT1 and BT3; then REATTACH BT4+ to Disc12v at BT3+ to Disc12v

I would plan out your loads. The first Victron running the truck will likely never approach capacity; the second Victron all depends upon what you are adding–

We have the rear axle out of service at the moment. Once it is all back together we will hook it all up and see what we learn. That laptop is very nice—

In our 2003 M1078A1 the lower rpm range of 3rd gear is not locked. When watching the gear status either on Bluefire or using the DPA III+ connected to a laptop you can seen the torque converter locked status change. And you certainly feel the change in the seat as well. I'll try to pay...

1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's and EcoHubs in 3L would be about 32mph to 49mph; 1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's alone in 3L would be about 16mph to 24mph. To be at 16mph with 3.07's and EcoHubs the pacbrake would have to lower the rpm's to 800 and the torque converter would need to remain...

I have never owned one either, this LMTV has me buying tools I didn't already have. Like impact tools and such, 20 bolts a split rim over 200#?

With the EcoHubs on 3.90's I wish I could reprogram the pedal to react more slowly at first and progressively become more responsive. Better yet 4.50's might be about perfect—

https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/84/5421/CTIS%2DSpindle%2DHub%2DSeal Scroll down to related items for bearing hub seals—

Only doing rears right now. Fronts will be another time; looking forward to learning from you. What are you using for a seal driver? The tool I found is $200, though I don't want to do this again, so $200—

Back to seal purchases. Redoing our rear axle we purchased hub and CTIS seals from Oshkosh (OSE), I view OSE better than ebay and some others—

Eastern. Though we ordered 5; one that arrived was not a Hutchinson and we sent it back as it would allow beads to enter the space between the beadlock and rim cylinder. They refunded us for the one we sent back. Still awaiting arrival of a fifth for the spare— {EDIT: buying used items over...

We are now running rubber Hutchinson beadlocks, 24 ounces, using 1/2" stainless bearings, dynamic balancing beads and 24 ounces, fish weights held on with extra split rim nuts opposite the CTIS wheel valves. [edit: added a photo of how we attacked the fish weights. @Gunny 0369 did it much...

This is silly perhaps, but we swapped the voltage and water temperature gauges and the 12volt and emergency flasher switches. We have been looking at reorganizing the dash layout to easier monitor vitals. After contemplating adding transmission temperature, rpm, current gear and drawing new...