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Your efforts paid off; thanks for the laugh. Habitat will have a separate system–

We see it as a good path forward as we are adding 24v AC to the cab. Another way to separate out the AC and non essential accessories would be to replace the Niehoff dual with a 28v 200a and reuse the 12v lines to run 24v for the AC and accessories straight off the second battery bank...

The Victron 24/12v 70a connecyed at PDP X1 supplies 12v to the PDP X2. Leave a 12v feed to keep dual alternator happy. Only load on alternator is 24v. 28v 100a should be 2.8kW—

Is it complex? Use a Victron 24/12 70a to power the PDP's 12v side utilizing the full 24v side of the Niehoff alternator while the engine is running; charge 2 batteries in series maintained by the alternator's 24v side for starting, eliminating over charging, alternator over heating, and need...

The more I read the more I think 100 to 150a 24v alternator is all that is needed for cab and chassis only, even with a 24v HVAC system for the cab. We are thinking of splitting to a system of two 2-12vAGM's in series (first set to the starter; second set to the PDP @h X1, with a 24/12 70a...

What brand panels are you all using? 12v? 24v? 48v?

We are thinking of splitting to a system of two 2-12vAGM's in series (first set to the starter; second set to the PDP @h X1, with a 24/12 70a dc2dc converter between X1 and X2), and replacing the LBCD with a Victron Cyrix-ct 225a 12/24v battery combiner. At the same time it looks like we can...

Deleted a half baked idea once again leaving the purpose of a thread. Thank you for your patience with me—

What four pressures do you use and how do you obtain them? And what is the weight of your unit and use case?

I have the DANA/Spicer software. It works great. Thinking about adding a switch to change which pin(s) provide power to the ECU to create more pressure options. Is three settings enough? Would six be better? See the thread that starts here—

Thank you. I am thinking about trying to find the different programming different power routes may provide [H, M, or Z] that @GeneralDisorder mentioned on another thread. Thought you may have gone that route. I am wondering if I really need 6 or 9 different settings?

Would you share what settings you use on your high/low programs?

How much are you all paying to insure your MV's? We have an 2003 Stewart and Stevenson M1078A1, not for hire, private use. Liability, maximum on uninsured motorists and medical; what ever our typical deductible amount. With the agent who does our home and other vehicles, too. I think he has...

We are all making plans for the path we hope to travel. Life is what happens when you are busy making other plans. —Alen Saunders

Habitat has to be separate, like a trailer, a habitat must carry its own 'water'. Cab and chassis 24v 175 or 200a alternator, a 24v/12v 70a converter to run 12v side and accessories, four? batteries, (and a spare ether can), for winter starting after sitting unused two weeks at Alta, Big Sky...

I am still thinking running a 3126b or C7 cab and chassis, even with a 24v AC unit, a 28v 200a alternator with a 24v/12v 70a converter is the simplest, most economical way to use in-stock, reasonably available parts. That can be accomplished new, out of the box for about $2,000 and run reliably...

How do you all know it is the 100a in the diagram? Both diagrams reference 300a. I am trying learn, you all are so far ahead of me–

Two questions: 1— #45 looks like a bracket? 2— Wouldn't it be simpler and less expensive to go to a 24v alternator and a 24v/12v converter?

Any progress to report?

Are they torqued differently than a M1078?