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I mounted the tires myself due to the two piece rims, and like the original post I was unable to find anyone who would balance them. So I ended up getting the centramatics. They're not perfect, but they are good enough that I really can't tell they're not balanced. Just be sure when you mount...

There have been a few people who used the troop seats from a HMMWV to extend the sides, and then fabricated something for the front/back as needed. Other then taller walls, this also has the side effect of additional seating for (low speed) parade routes.

My arctic weather kit came with a chunk of plywood to 'insulate' the tunnel. As part of that were self tapping screws.. Through the holes in the plywood (pre-drilled) and into the metal below. Turns out that 3 of the 4 holes were already in my floor, so easy to line everything up. As others...

That low of tire pressure absolutely destroys the sidewalls of the stock military tires.. I run my tires (after the first set experienced sidewall cracking) at 35 front/40 rear.. But I have an M998, not a completely different weight class... if I put a heavy load in it, I'll actually go DOWN...

On my rig, the head gasket started to fail, and exhaust was getting into the coolant which caused it to go out the overflow due to pressure. Soon after, huge amount of white smoke. Once I realized what was happening i got it to a mechanic for a new head gasket fairly quickly, no damage that we...

I don't like splicing or cutting any of the factory wires, unless I'm reparing something. My using the connectors I avoided splices. The switch was to ensure that the regular diagnostic port would work in the future, if I needed it. (I do have a diagnostic device, but alas no software so I've...

I bought a set of new connectors, and double throw/double pole switch. So.... tach sensor on back of engine -> connector -> switch (with my tach) -> connector -> regular diagnostic port or tach sensor on back of engine -> connector -> switch (with my tach) -> tach My understanding is this...

Welcome!

My autoparts store just had some on the shelf, LEDs, and they were 24V compatible.

Hmm why were the batteries in the backseat box? ;)

After repairing this is what I ended up with. I zip tied the loom to it won’t rub in the future.

remove the gauge panel. Unbolt the steering wheel, steering wheel brackets, you can hang the brackets down and not have to disconnect the shaft. Then trace the wires unhook them and bring them out under the dash or out of the gauge cluster opening to work on it. Space really wasn’t bad in my...

This is what I found above the steering wheel shaft. All due to chafing.

Under the dash, just above the steering wheel shaft is a bundle of wires. On my rig that bundle was too close to the steering wheel shaft, it chafed and welded itself to the steering shaft when I was making corner. But if it hadn't done that and then broken there would have been a LOT of heat...

Your rear hubs are the same as the front, including the 'steering' connector, the difference is they connect to the frame of the vehicle. This means as weight is added it effectively pushes the "steering" rod out, causing the toe to go more neutral. It's just a standard slip style coupling...

I found a local shop that works on light commercial vehicles. Talked to the owner and he agreed to work on it with the understanding I was liable to order parts, and I owed for time spent since it would be very difficult for them to estimate. I gave them a (on usb flash drive) a copy of the...

Normal? Not really, but not unusual. But yes, Y the power wire and you should be good

You want power from the horn under the vehicle. Two wires in, one is power and one is ground (switched at the steering wheel as mentioned above) as for wire gauge, I think the lighting is 14 gauge, while grounds are 12 gauge. But this is completely from memory. I thought I had found the...

On mine the horn is on in both modes flipped to the right: it is NOT on in the BO modes to the left, only to the right.

The horn power is used because the Horn will run in all “regular driving positions” but not in Blackout (BO) mode in the light selector. So if you want reverse lights even in blackout (or if lights are off) you’ll need to find power from somewhere else. The horn is easy, just find the 24V...