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IIRC, (its been a few years) it was a very weak valve spring! You're right in not crushing the filter, you just need to keep it from moving. Later when I got a real spring from another generator, I was surprised how close I'd come to the factory one.
Or...
Someone with the second generator...
IIRC, the washer is trivial, and again IIRC, I used an old valve spring once for the oil filter. I may have a spare and if so, I'd be glad to give it to you.
There are many options. If you have not done so go to GarageJournal.com and search both the electrical forum, and the free parking one, and you'll see a lot of different methods.
I have a similar transfer switch (I have both a 10 circuit and a 6 circuit one, and use both) and I'd strongly recommend a proper transfer switch over this system. Yes, it works, but I'm not 100% comfortable with it now that it is done. In fact, I now have a proper transfer switch, and when I do...
Single phase power is 'static' in that there is no change in the relationship--after all there is only one thing (the one phase) so nothing for it to change against.
Three phase is constantly moving and as such converting that change into rotary motion is easy.
A single phase motor works by...
I have a 1 amp wall wart (rated at 24 volts, but puts out about 28 no-load) that I use. Works wonderfully, and is cheap. Of course, not suitable for AGM batteries, but my MEP has regular LA batteries. If you limit your voltage to 27 volts, the current will self regulate... This makes trickle...
It gets complicated. You need a transfer contactor with a low voltage coil at the house (the utility feed transfer) and that transfer contactor has to have (built in, not simulated with another relay) a contact that goes back to the gen set's contactor. The gen set then can't apply power until...
I was an EE in a prior life. I spent a lot of time on this problem a few years ago when someone online kept trying to back-feed from their detached shop.
Though I did come up with a way that might work, it is impossible to create a system that meets the legal (code) requirements without...
Meter swapability can be confirmed by looking on the meter face (usually at the bottom) for something that says FS and a number. There may be an equal sign, colon between the FS and the number, but the number indicates the amount of current needed to move the indicator to the full scale mark. If...
No, you can't make that assumption. However, I believe you can disconnect the contactor's coil and that would be a start on diagnostics.
However even if you disconnect the coil and it doesn't trip the breaker, that doesn't mean the coil is bad! It could be you have a high current draw...
Agreed, run without a load and see what happens.
Then I'd stick on a DC clamp-on ammeter on the wire to the breaker and measure the current. It is possible the breaker is defective, and tripping at a lower amperage than spec'ed.
Direct replacement? I don't think so, but it looks like they might be usable. These filterers don't have the metal frame that the original has, I don't have exact sizes on these but I can go to the parts store and measure one if someone wants.
Do you have access to a DC clamp-on meter? If yes, monitor current going from the battery when you flip from stop to run and see how much. It is possible (remote) that the circuit breaker is defective and that's why it doesn't trip.
I'd do a careful inspection of the gauge/control panel first...
The MEP-004 manuals (with schematics) are easily available from a number of sources. Worse case, I can perhaps email them to you.
That said, the rectifier is a relatively standard bridge model and readily available (I may have a couple on hand, I'd have to check...)
Kinda sucks that someone...
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