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I had looked at a universal one like that at first. Its for sizes 20 to 16. I thought the individual ones would function better. The small red size 20 one does not fit into the socket as the video shows to do before pressing the plunger to release the wire. I can try the one you listed as well.

Jonard kr-260 and ka-260. I spent a number of hours on the internet trying to find out exactly what tools i needed. I thought I needed the front side removal tools vs the more common rear side extractors.

$315 in tools later and I am still not sure how to remove the wire and socket from the plug. I guess they are the wrong tools. Can anyone shed any light on how to remove the socket and wires from the p7 plug?

Pin 17 in the j7 amphenol plug is a little messed up looking. It has 24v. Maybe its shorting to pin 24 below it. Now i just need to figureout how to take apart the amphenol

J7 pin 24 and the red wire side of the high temp switch plug are 12v. Black wire side of plug is 2v. This is with the high temp switch unplugged

With J7 unplugged. On the engine side both the plug and bulkhead pin 24 give me 12v. I also have 12v now on s1 and 10.5v on pin 8 of the fault indicator Ok let me revise that. There must be a cap in there. The panel side voltage everywhere is now 0.8. I still habe 12v on the j7 plug pin 24. Ill...

Still 26v. 26v also on pin 8 at the harness with it unplugged and s1 off

I have 26v on pin 8. K15 has a red light. The engine also seems to hunt slightly with the updated governor controller. With the s1 off and the e stop pushed in (or out) i still get battery voltage to ground on pin 8.

Thank you. I will try all of that in the morning and report back.

I have a mep-831a that was a reset unit and I have done a lot of work on it to get it running. Eventually, it ran fine. I ran it at 3kw for about 4 hours and it ran did ok. All of a sudden now it shuts off instantly with a high temp alarm. What is odd is that before you start the unit the high...

With a prior commitment I can bring a new/unissued HDT Base-X 203 Tent. 14'x15'. Sorry the system will not let me upload an image but they are easily found online.

Any tips for when the strainer refuses to move? I had a 4' pipe wrench on it with enough force I was concerned about damaging the tank.

The TO-4 at napa today does say it meets c-3 and c-4 specs. I also found that rotella t1 10w meets c-3/c-4. The rotella 15w-40 only meets tes-439. tes-439 looks to be the newer off road spec. Are the newer specs backwards compatible with c-4?

simp5782 Did you need to do any major modifications to fit the radiator/oil cooler/intercooler setup? I don not mean making brackets and repluming. I mean like body lifts and all to fit under the stock hood. A coolant filter, block heater and intercooler setup were next after the transmission...

Its time to change my trans oil and filters in my 925a2. It has been running fine for the past 10 years. It came with motor oil. I'm not sure if its 10w or 15w-40 but I think I'm going to put 10w in it. I am not a big fan of the oil to oil cooler for the trans. I dont think they cool very well...

If that fit then that works for me. Thank you.

Parts sticky, google doc and misc posts list 2 different belt numbers for the 8.3L K080675 and K080680. I think last part of that is the length. What one is correct? Thank you

I'm in for 1 if they are around 2k. 3 if they are closer to 1k

Make sure the belt is run properly. Maybe its run on the wrong side of a pulley some where.

Did you get it yet?