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I know Rockwells have positive camber made into the knuckles. Ya can tell it real good with 52" XZL's. But both off your tires would be wearing the same so maybe its tire pressure or the bushings in that knuckle are bad.

Front is easy to change over to A2 style bearings (click link to thread post #7, click on pic links to see A3 to A2 style spindle). Did it on my front last October after I found out how proud people are of the CTIS style bearings. Did have issue with inner seal but it was part my fault (install...

10*4. Thanks.

Check out this pdf & let me know which one ya think is best. I'm thinking Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140 (even thou they only test 75w-90's mainly in these tests). http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

What makes you say 200*? I'm running Lucas Heavy Duty 85w-140 & a quart of heavy duty oil stabilizer. Hows the upper part of the chunk lubricated? Does the bull (ring) gear just sling it up there?

What speed do you average on the interstate runs?

I can hold my hand on it for about 5-8sec. Got a digital IR temp sensor to get accurate temperature. Yes, the front still spins. Don't have my Ouverson manual lock out hubs yet.

Ambient temps been around 87*-95*. I know 65MPH is alittle speedy for Rocks.

Whats the normal operating temp for the 2.5 Rockwell axles differential/chunk (mainly the rear b/c I don't have front driveshaft hooked up all the time) & what temp is considered "not" to exceed. After about a 30 mile run at 60-65MPH my pinion nut on rear is pretty warm. I'm not asking about hub...

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. When I get it worked out I'll post back to this thread.

I appreciate the link. I know the nut uses a 3" socket. What I'm needing to know is the inside diameter of nut/outside diameter of spindle & the thread count per inch. I'm out of town & don't have any parts to measure to get what I need to know. Working on a better way of holding hub to spindle...

I need to know what the spindle thread size is (diameter, threads per inch), basically size of the nut.

Hey Gringel, while I was taken off the knuckles I decided to take a break & look at the new inner seals I ordered. The ones I got before came in a clear bag these are wrapped in a greenish paper & covered with grease. The ones in the greenish paper look like a thicker metal & the rubber seal...

Thanks Gringel. Pics helps out. So ya don't think not having backing will make a difference if seal is correct? Also what's a dirt/dust deflector as other poster stated above on spindle??

Hmmmmm, I'll have to look into this. Thanks.

It was an A3 spindle but I machined the air passage off to reveal the A2 mounting surface. So your saying the black rubber part of the seal (facing out, part that comes in contact with outer edge of race) when installed should protrude 7.5mm from the shoulder the bearing is pressed against...

So put a thicker shim in it to take as much play out & all is good. I made a custom bottom plate out of 3/8" plate steel for my caliper mount.

I used the quad seal ring from an old 395WE M35A3 inner bearing (replaced those bearings on rear axle so just used the spare part to press front inner seal on). Then used old race against that & tapped it on with small rubber mallet. If it helps any I have converted to disc brakes. So I don't...

How much play is deemed ok in vertical movement on the king pins? Axle is on jackstands & I can move knuckle up & down atleast 1/32" possibly 1/16"??? Is that tolerable?

Was, got some red silicone ones on the way. Replacing king pin bushings tomorrow. Why do you ask if I had zipper boots? Inner wheel bearing is not really affected by the boot. Muddy water would have to get in the boot, go around inside the knuckle, pass thru the spindle, swirl around the drive...