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I've sorted out a lot of things on my M1009 over the past couple of years. I would like to put a fluiddampr on it sometime this fall. I have done dampers before, but with the engines out of the bay. I'll be doing this one in my driveway, unfortunately. What needs to be removed to do this job...

I realized yesterday that I seated the seal on the back of the rotor too far down. Should have been flush. It still has plenty of clearance from the bearing so I'm going to live with it for now, but I'm kicking myself after getting everything else right.

Coming back to this issue. I finished rebuilding the driver's side and moved on to the passenger's side today. Things are going much faster now that I know what to do. I just pulled out the short half shaft and sure enough, the u-joint is locked up on one axis. The locking hub was...

Thanks for the screen cap. It's interesting how that order of operations is completely different than what I saw everywhere else.

I think it's the right size but the taper it's mating with is now nice and greasy. I really don't want to push directly on the ball joint with a jack but that may be where this is headed. That would put a lot of pressure on the c-clip.

I was hoping to get a quick win after work today by installing my steering knuckle with the new ball joints. No dice. The lower ball joint is just spinning in it's assembly. I can't torque it. I tried using a jack and a cylinder from my press kit to push up on the knuckle without damaging...

Thanks for looking. I saw the same in the TM. Just referred to it as a group of parts or something. Update: installed these tonight. That is indeed the correct part number for my application (M1009)

Amazon had these with next day delivery so I took a chance. These do appear to be correct. They are greasable but it's on the cap. You get a flush plug and I assume that when you want to service them you need to screw in a zerk. That's OK with me since they will be much easier to get to...

I believe this is the correct part but I'm going to call MOOG tomorrow to confirm: https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-377

I'll do more looking, but for the greasable one, the zerk fitting on the cap and internal snap ring doesn't sound correct.

Yes. The ones that are basically inside the steering knuckle between the two ball joints. Thank you.

Sorry for being "that guy". I spent an hour last night searching and checking the TM, and I can't find a modern part number for the u-joints on front shafts (steering knuckle). I bought what I thought was the correct Moog part but it's too small. I assume the M1009 has a larger bearing...

Sorry all. This does have the clips, they were just too rusty for me to differentiate from the yoke. I just removed the first one. Thanks everyone!

So just get a chisel and attack the plastic? All the videos I'm seeing show people melting them with an oxy torch. Thanks.

Thanks. I got past all of that. My top one had a flange. Who knows what someone installed? Trying to get these plastic u-joints apart now.

Was attempting to do this and I just noticed that the u-joints don't have the 3/4 moon clips that everyone online says they should have. Does that mean I have the godawful plastic ones that you have to melt out? Any tips on doing that? I've never dealt with them before.

Late update on this. I finally just pushed that upper balljoint out. It indeed had a cut on the bottom for a C-clip. Must have been some oddball part. The shaft for the joint looks just fine though. I'm going to pressure wash everything now and then change out the u-joint then reassemble...

I hear ya. I'm going to try to dial in the steering box after I get this back together. I figured replacing everything up front was worth the effort since this is a 40 year old truck I intend on keeping forever. I have heard pops and things steering it at a stop, so I suspect the u-joints are...

Victory! Back to the ball joint now.

I'm tired of playing around with this. I just put the nuts back on the studs and sanded both down with a dremel. I'm planning to weld the nuts to the studs with a flux core rod. I figure this will put a ton of heat into the cone washer and hopefully give me a method to back everything off...