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thanks for the heads up. I installed a pyro and boost gauge already. I’ll check for the block stamping when I get a chance

For more fuel I want more threads showing on the “more fuel” side correct?

Knew I was probably forgetting something. I was thinking it was out in the open. Thanks

I have a m35a2 with an lds and I/p that didn’t come with a fdc. I went to adjust the fuel screw today and realized it is just a plug, so it appears, instead of a screw with lock nuts. Can I adjust it or what do I need to do? I changed the hydraulic head o rings awhile back because I was gaining...

Anyone else ever decide to swap from pto winch to a 25k sherpa or 18k warn? 99.9% of the time I’m by myself out in the middle of the woods. The couple times I’ve had to winch myself out I think it would of been a 1000 times easier with an electric winch. And I’m usually alone when I need to...

Mine came singled out on 11.00’s. They were dish out to make it wider, didn’t care for the look and knew I really wouldn’t like the dish in narrow look

I’ve built booths out of pvc pipe and taped plastic. Use a box fan for an exhaust fan and house furnace filters for an intake. Works great for keeping over spray down, bugs out etc. Wouldn’t go thru it for the big truck parts but for my bikes and other vehicles I do.

I’ve debated on lockers and the hubs. They’re not bad priced.

Got the rear end dualed back out with g177’s and 14.5’s on the front. Thanks to TobyS for supplying the 14.5’s and MWMules for hauling them all the way back for me. I like the look a lot better then the singled 11.00’s. Changed my kingpin bushings, checked toe in and milled 5/16 off of the high...

I’d just hook the wires together. One more thing to fail and give you grief later.

They’re going in a couple of g177’s. Moving my fronts to the rear and mounting a couple of spares to go back to duals and a3 wheels and tires up front.

I knew the valve stem was integral lol. Just seemed like different tubes I saw had different valve stem designations. I assumed different placement, bend, size etc.

I’m sure this has been asked a million times but I can’t find an answer. When ordering a tube for a 11.00r20 on stock a2 wheels is there a certain valve stem I need? And where a good place to get a flap at? I’m either finding shady foreign websites or nothing.

My torque multiplier is a 53 or 58-1. Gets me to around 8lbs then the derating. Just doesn’t seem like it’d be accurate at that much of a difference and being an eBay torque multiplier. It’s awesome for busting lug nuts loose though.

About to pull all my wheels off again. My current torque wrench doesn’t go high enough and I’m not sold on using my torque multiplier and doing the math and trusting it (the multiplier not my math lol). Any of use run the torque sticks? I’ve used em a lot on cars and trucks and I’ve checked em...

I just recovered my deuce with seat covers from Jatonka. Fit and look great and price was reasonable. Left the original cushions in my driver spring seat. Passenger I redid with 4 or 5” firm memory foam. My old m51 dump I bought fabric, made new plywood bases and backs and used firm memory foam...

A buddy has a guy wanting to trade a deuce for his street bike. He claims a construction company here in Missouri bought a few of them from the government for the Joplin tornado clean up and he bought one from them. There’s no title just a bill of sale. Any way to title one of them?

I like my Gravely but starting to think I need a joystick steer zero turn so I can drink my beer while I mow

I had read to use 2 tubes per hub when I did mine. I just bought the big tubs and used half per hub. I also saw where someone drilled and tapped their hub for a grease zerk, kinda like a bearing buddy on a trailer. So I did that too.