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Yeah, homemade. It does help with more time between cycling of the fan clutch

Yeah that sounds normal. On, off. On, off. There is no ram air on this radiator orientation. You can fab some up a little though

How did he determine this? During fluid change? If you have the liquid cooled rear diff I believe that the transfer case is also cooled with engine coolant as well. Older models were cooled with transmission fluid. There is a "cooling loop" in the transfer case that has been known to crack...

Im voting for lift pump. Ive had numerous lift pumps leaking externally at the seam upon arrival from gov planet. Ive also had trucks that had the same symptoms you described with good flow at idle but would starve for fuel while driving. Good flow at drain valve while idling but weak flow...

GET THAT REVERSE POLARITY BULB GUYS! It fixes this issue.

It was originally 10-32 phillips head screws into rubber wellnuts. Many have wollered out since new and you have to improvise with 1/4-20 nutserts/wellnuts. whatever now fits

Yes they do. This container is 48x48

You can remove the seat portion and just run the backs. The backs only have two boards but you can take the seat slats and cut them down to fit in the empty spaces.

Looks like Hutchinson was the manufacturer of this set...

Are you saying you cant break the glow plug loose from being fully tight? or were you able to loosen it and it just wont come out of the hole? The extractor tool is for when the glow plug is fully unscrewed but the tip is swollen and wont slide out of the head. If you cant crack the glow plug...

I read somewhere that those fans/motors are unobtainium. Guy got ahold of the manufacturer and they said they are only available as the condenser assembly. sounds crazy but I filed that fact away in my memory

When you take yours out and look inside you will see a crumbly mess and gain understanding. Had a guy with 60+ humvees to his credit show me a recently removed valve and it enlightened me. I went and replaced the one in the unit I was futzing with and sure enough with that ball valve shut I had...

There is a tensioner on the passenger side below the A/C compressor. It has a square hole in it for a ratchet to lever it down to release the belt

I just replaced one recently with a small brass ball valve and brass barb adapters from home deeps. The originals seem to all be deteriorated or problematic in some fashion.

Fuel Check valves that can be removed

My guess is to access some nut thats behind there. Mine had that whole panel removed and replaced with a shop fabricated piece pop riveted in place. I then hole sawed a one inch hole to add a door hinge nut where they drilled a nutsert out for armored doors

It seems to me that there was a Marine Corp wide program to schmutz over all electrical connections with RTV to prevent corrosion.

You talking about this stuff? Its just gobs of Clear RTV

Plug the FTS into 458a and 458d and it should function as intended. Personally i would leave the manual override switch inline as a convenient bypass for manual activation