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Turn on the power like you do before you start the truck.
Pop the hood and climb on the drivers side fender.
Looking at the secondary(fuel) filters on the side of your motor you will see a bleeder on the top, in the middle. Crack it open till you get a solid stream of fuel.
Start truck...
Very often when I've had the fuel system apart, it requires a quick whiff of ether to get the system to purge, then it starts correctly after that.
You've bled the air from the filters?
A quick way to check if your our of time is to set the harmonic balancer to TDC then pull the fuel shut off cover. The hyd head's red/scored tooth should be VISIBLE.
Visible, not lined up! Just visible.
If not, your 180 out.
Nah, just accept that you'll be working in crap weather and it won't be so bad. Once your mind is right, the task won't be so daunting. 95% of what folks don't realize is that perception is EVERYTHING.
No, you don't need to remove the rad or fender to do the job.
I usually remove the injector lines one at a time. As soon as you get one off, the rest are usually easier.
Once you get all the bolts off and it still won't come off the motor, yes, there is a bolt tucked in between the IP body and...
Yes I would swap the LDS one on to that one(or the whole IP). If you just swap that part you shouldn't have to do anything. If you swap the whole IP, you may have to turn the fuel up or down to meet the original power of the motor.
IMHO, it would be easier (and better) to put the whole LDS ip...
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