002A Aux Fuel Setup Suggestions

[Chainbreaker]

A little history of your genset may help understand its condition...

In your first post you mentioned that you have had this generator for a while. Did you ever have it running or see it running?

How did you come by it in the first place? Private seller, Gov't Auction or...?

Also, what year does it indicate on the MFG's placard on side of control box? Does it have a reset tag of any sort?

 

[jamawieb]

Yeah, mine has a coil between the connectors on the hz and the voltage. Here is a pic of the one that was broke.
View attachment 707512[/Quote

Those coils are supposed to be removed. I never understood why they were there but I always removed them.

 

[n5yzv]

All good questions:
The Gen was manufactured in late 1980. I don't see any other tag that could be a "reset" tag. The hour meter was at "1", so I assumed there was 10,000 hours on it.
I purchased the gen from Gov't Auction mid 2011. I picked it up at Ft. Sam Houston in San Antonio. I went through all the basics (fuel, filters, oil, batteries, etc..) and it started up in about 5 sec. I ran it a little here and there, never really took the time to validate the output. I got busy and relocated it to the the back yard next to the shed.
After a series of minor power events, I decided I need to get it up and going, so I started addressing things. All minor. Loose starter, clean out the tank again, buy new batteries, etc.. I've been going through the output testing, making sure all is "right".

 

[n5yzv]

Other than a the parts I mentioned above, I am in the process of buying the "new and improved" AC and DC Voltage Regulators. After this, I just need to pull out the aux fuel solenoid and get it working. I need to clean up the ASK, but after that, I think it will be good to go. With this, I plan to connect to my house, via an Interloc (I hope) or a transfer switch.

 

[Guyfang]

This is something else I have seen over and over. The coil comes with a new meter. It is supposed to be removed before installing a new meter. Sadly, the meters come with no instructions telling you to toss the coil.

 

[n5yzv]

Heh, maybe this is why my Hz meter isn't working. It has a nice pretty coil on it.

 

[Guyfang]

Yeah, mine has a coil between the connectors on the hz and the voltage. Here is a pic of the one that was broke.
View attachment 707512[/Quote

Those coils are supposed to be removed. I never understood why they were there but I always removed them.

Its called a shortening coil. A CECOM rep told me its to protect the meter from EMP while the meter is in storage. I am not so sure that's right, but that's what he told me. In any case. Toss it before installing.

 

[Guyfang]

Coooooooooooooooould be.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Its called a shortening coil. A CECOM rep told me its to protect the meter from EMP while the meter is in storage. I am not so sure that's right, but that's what he told me. In any case. Toss it before installing.

Well in his case it worked! It shorted for sure when ran. I was scratching my head...and the thought did come to mind that these jumper coils might have been used to help EMP proof the gensets while not used. After all, these gensets were designed to be deployed in war zones, so it stands to reason they wanted to protect them while inactive so they were good to go when brought into service.

So n5yzv...with that in mind your unit had the coils installed and only 1 hr showing on the meter. Perhaps you got a virgin unit (just initial test/calibration time) or one that had been reset and put back in storage. However, since it was run with the shorting coils in place it may have caused some other electrical problems.

Also, if you decide to go with an Interlock kit take a look at these: http://natramelec.com/

I installed one down at my service entrance on Barn/Shop and it was less than $100 and well made.

 

[n5yzv]

My Hz meter works!!! haha. Gotta love it. Something else, when looking at the AC VR, I don't see 1,2 & 3 // 4 & 5 // 8 & 9 with jumpers between them. I saw on one of the replacement boards out there that these terminals should be shorted out for 60 Hz use. Dunno.

Gotta love a mystery.

 

[n5yzv]

You know, may be. It starts great. Things tend to take a beating when they are stored. I was wondering about the attempt at EMP too. I would figure that for the most part, this gen should be immune to an EMP. Or pretty close to it.

 

[Chainbreaker]

... I don't see any other tag that could be a "reset" tag. The hour meter was at "1", so I assumed there was 10,000 hours on it.

I seriously doubt the military would let it run up to 10,000 hrs...but you never know.

According to the Tier 2 Reset Manual Parameters it would have been eligible for a reset when it reached 4000 hrs:

TABLE 2. Generator Set Hour Point for TIER 2 RESET
Generator Size and Type Model Number Hour Meter Reading
5 kW Mil Std MEP-002A 4000
10 kW Mil Std MEP-003A /112A 4000

Source: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?169771-Military-MEP-generator-reset-information

So with 1 hr on your meter and the shorting coils in place on voltage and Hz meters it could be either:

1. A new never issued unit (cosmetics would also appear new with original paint, decals and stenciling)
or
2. A Reset unit (should have a riveted Reset Tag next to Mfg's placard)
or
3. A new control box was installed
or
4. ?

 

[rustystud]

Urp !

 

[Guyfang]

Or the meter was bad and was replaced.

 

[n5yzv]

Yeah. This is a bit of a mystery of the number of real hours.

First, It doesn't look like the AC VR was setup for 60 Hz since I don't have jumpers between 1,2,3 // 4,5 // 8,9. From what I've seen posting wise (I haven't found this in a TM yet)
Second, I had the coils on the back of the Hz and the V meters.
Third, The hour meter was very low when I got it (if I remember right, 1 or 2 hours)

I guess I can take this as an assumed reality that it is a very low use generator. In the mean time, waiting for misc parts to roll in. Starting to plan out load testing and connection to my house. Looks like I get to put in a new main breaker panel, as is is less expensive than modifying the existing. This will give me a good chance to clean up the wiring and do some labeling and correcting some additional neutral to ground points. Once done, I'll install the interlock kit that was mentioned previously.

 

[Guyfang]

If you look at the -12 manual, PDF page reader 52, there is the jumpers shown in detail.

 

[n5yzv]

Guyfang: Thanks for everything. Also thanks for uploading all the documentation in the TM's section. Thanks for bearing with me too.

 

[Chainbreaker]

...Looks like I get to put in a new main breaker panel, as is is less expensive than modifying the existing. This will give me a good chance to clean up the wiring and do some labeling and correcting some additional neutral to ground points. Once done, I'll install the interlock kit that was mentioned previously.

Make sure when you do your rewiring of new breaker panel that you leave space in the correct location for the Interlock generator breaker. In fact, you really want to have the kit already in hand to be installed as you are rewiring the new panel so you can route the larger generator inlet box conductor wires more easily and directly to where they need to exit the box without a tangle of all the other circuits in your way.

 

[n5yzv]

That is exactly what I am thinking. In fact, I plan to wire the mains and the Gen up first. I figure those two will be the most important on arrangement. In fact, my main is bottom fed then looped to the top. I may flip the panel to have it straight wire in the bottom. (the panel I'm planning to use allows for this) I figure as well, I'll use a 100a breaker to the gen. Even with a 002a I figure I could see surges in the 80 amp area.

 

[Chainbreaker]

... I figure as well, I'll use a 100a breaker to the gen. Even with a 002a I figure I could see surges in the 80 amp area.

Just remember that the -002a has a 50 amp load breaker (there is a good sticky by Sewerzuk that goes into generator breaker tripping vs sudden high loads). My electrical panel has a 50 amp DP breaker for the generator and I have worked my -002a generator pretty hard...In one monthly test run I turned on 5600 watt dryer and my 2000 watt espresso machine's boiler suddenly kicked in along with other minimal household currents. Nothing tripped but the generator sure did grunt a bit but kept on going.

If your looking to "future proof" your generator hook-up capability from inlet box to interlock just make sure wire gauge is sized appropriately to your panel's breaker for generator. I think the limiting factor will be the max wire size/connector that your external inlet box allows. There are pin & sleeve type hookup connectors that allow for larger gauge higher amperage rated conductors.

Edit: Haoleb's thread has some pic's of Pin & Sleeve hookup. His post #19 shows good picture.