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002A Ran for 1/2 hour (exersise) today then won't start???

joesco

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Hampstead, NH
Ok guys, thought it was safe to go back into the water, but the sharks came circling again!

I started my MEP-002A this morning and after two attempts it started right up, ran normal, no smoke, steady 60hz and great power output, but I did notice the cooling shutters did not open. They move freely after a WD-40 treatment a while ago. I had it running without a load for about 30 minutes.

I shut him down and place a voltmeter on the batteries and they were fine, 12.5 volts each. I re-started him and the starter would not engage, fuel pumps were running and the ip solenoid was clicking up, but the starter would not engage.

I let it sit for about 1/2 hour, came back and it started right up again. I let him run for about 10 minutes, shut him down and the same thing happened again, click, click, click, but the starter would not engage. Frustrated, I put him away and will try again tomorrow.

Any ideas, here are mine, base on my minimal experience with these green machines:
1. Overheating and something is preventing him from starting?
2. Starter maybe on its way out?
3. Shutters not opening, causing something to trip and preventing it from starter from starting the unit?

Any help is always appreciated. Thanks!
 

Crawdaddy

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Louisiana
There is a temperature switch inline with the starting circuit I believe. It's located in the shutter housing. Perhaps the machine got too hot because the shutters did not open and kept it from restarting until it cooled sufficiently.
 

Carl_in_NH

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Wilton NH
It's not hot enough today for those shutters to really open; you'll typically only see them open about 1/16 inch at the bottom on a day like today without a load.

I suspect either your starter or solenoid. Remove and check / clean.
 

rickf

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As Carl said, Mine don't open for close to 20 minutes and then only a hair. If the starter is clicking then power is getting to it but it is not going through the contacts in the solenoid or the brushes are worn in the starter. If I remember correctly you have done some serious cranking on this thing over the last few months. I vote for a starter disassembly and inspection.

Rick
 

Stonepicker1

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As Carl said, Mine don't open for close to 20 minutes and then only a hair. If the starter is clicking then power is getting to it but it is not going through the contacts in the solenoid or the brushes are worn in the starter. If I remember correctly you have done some serious cranking on this thing over the last few months. I vote for a starter disassembly and inspection.

Rick
:ditto:On the solenoid.
 

Speddmon

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Don't waste your time checking the oil pressure or temperature switch....they are bypassed during starting so they are not the issue. If you can hear the crank relay clicking (K3), but the solenoid is not then you need to check the crank relay or the starter. An easy way is to see if you are getting 24 volts to the solenoid while holding the switch in start. If you are, then your solenoild is screwed up. If not, K3 is not passing power. If the crank relay isn't even trying to click, then you may have an issue with the starter lockout switch located by the oil filter housing.
 

Carl_in_NH

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Tom has a great point by mentioning K3; look inside the control cubicle at K3 - even basic checks before grabbing the voltmeter to continue checking. Sometimes the relay is fine but the contacts where the relay plugs into its socket are dirty (or in one case, the relay had fallen out of the socket because the mounting screws were not tightened). Worth a look before removing parts that are more of a pain to get to.
 

joesco

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Hampstead, NH
Thanks guys for all the guidance AGAIN! Just to clarify, when I turn the switch on to start him, the fuel pump(s) activate and the clicking is the solenoid for the IP.

As Carl said, Mine don't open for close to 20 minutes and then only a hair. If the starter is clicking then power is getting to it but it is not going through the contacts in the solenoid or the brushes are worn in the starter. If I remember correctly you have done some serious cranking on this thing over the last few months. I vote for a starter disassembly and inspection.

Rick
 

Speddmon

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I would start with the K3 relay, make sure it pulls in and make sure you get 24 volts on the main contacts going out to the starter solenoid. Then move to the starter solenoid. It's probably something simple.
 

glcaines

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You can use a jumper cable and run 24V directly to the starter solenoid momentarily. If the starter turns, you have eliminated the starter and solenoid.
 

rickf

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You can use a jumper cable and run 24V directly to the starter solenoid momentarily. If the starter turns, you have eliminated the starter and solenoid.
And yes there will be sparks from the cables when they touch. No real harm but just letting you know.

Rick
 

joesco

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Hampstead, NH
Ok folks, spent a few hours yesterday taking all the great advice given. Here is what I found. I opened up the control panel and everything inside looks brand spanking new. K3 was loose so I tighten it down. 24 volts to both K2 and K3. So I proceeded to take of all the wires and cables off of the starter, solenoid and ground cable. Cleaned them all up with some emery cloth, lots of layers of paint, grease and dirt. Re-assembled using some dielectric grease on the contact points. Started him up, ran him for 1/2 hour, shut it down and it started right back up. Did this process two additional cycles and without any problems.

IS IT SAFE TO GO BACK INTO THE WATER NOW???

I am now in search of a new 24v volt meter and the one the genset is cracked and no longer working. I have a new 24v volt meter from an M998 years, I am wondering if that will work in the MEP?

THANKS VERY MUCH GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:

O.D. Fever

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Howard City, Mi.
I have a mep002a with a lazy soliniod. I have not fixed it yet. I put my hand on the soliniod lever when I hit the switch and give it a little push and it works. I'll fix it someday..
 

derf

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24V is 24V. A 24V DC meter from a Humvee should work fine, unless it is some kind of wacky meter. If it is just a straight forward DC meter it should work fine.
 

Carl_in_NH

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Joe; if you can wait a month I know you'll find the 'proper' voltmeter at the Weare Rally; we're coming up on it fast.

Glad to hear you got it running.
 

Speddmon

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Great job Joe, By the time you get all of the little quirks worked out of the set you'll know those generators like the back of your hand!!!!
 

joesco

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Location
Hampstead, NH
Thanks Carl & Ditto. Last year was the first time I missed the rally in about 12 years! Want to get a gallon of OD Green also! See you up there, hopefully!

Joe; if you can wait a month I know you'll find the 'proper' voltmeter at the Weare Rally; we're coming up on it fast.

Glad to hear you got it running.
 
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