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10 grade motor oil

cranetruck

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RE: Pros and cons

I was looking up viscosities and you come up with another good one Sarge. I have an easy time finding tractor hydraulic fluid, but SAE 10 motor oil is not so easy to locate around where I live.

Hydraulic fluid AW32 has a viscosity of about 5.4 cst (@100°C), which is about 10 to 15 in engine oil SAE weight.

As far as using engine oil, compare the description of Trator hydraulic oil above, some features are probably not found in engine oil....and some feature of engine oil are not needed in hydraulic oil...just making assumptions here....
 

wdbtchr

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RE: Pros and cons

From what I've found in research for my 580 Case backhoe that uses 1210 TCH, the main difference in hydraulic fluid is the addition of anti-foam agent.
 

BIG_RED

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45 Quarts! I'd filter that and put it in my M1009, that's half a tank of fuel. Never heard of a standard with a torque converter.. Just let off the gas to shift? no clutch I guess..
 

73m819

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Never heard of a standard with a torque converter.. Just let off the gas to shift? no clutch I guess..
Plemleyth(not spelled right, spell check no help) had a drive like that, forgot the name of it, might have been HI-DRIVE
 

Mark2X2

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What would SAE 10 motor oil be use for?
My Dad & Brother and I own a logging operation, my Dad has always ran SAE 10 oil from November through break up in March. Then SAE 30 the rest of the year. In a 450 JD, Timber Jack skidders 208,230&360 with a 3L53 Detroit, 4BT & 6BT Cummings. Cat 943 & 963 with 3204 & 3304. JD engines in Hood & Prentice loaders. The only engine trouble we ever had was on the 3304 Cat, the nut came of one side of the connecting rod & put the rod through the block.
My Brother and I run 15-40 Amsoil synthetic year round in my 653E JD with a 6068 and his 546 Valmet with a 4 cyl English Ford both are coming up on 16,000 hours. The deepest we have been into them is a valve adjustment.
 

jollyroger

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Plemleyth(not spelled right, spell check no help) had a drive like that, forgot the name of it, might have been HI-DRIVE

I always remember how to spell it the way my Dad taught me. Plymouth. He said just say it out as Pl eye mouth. All I could find was that Plymouth called it the Auto Clutch.

And Hydraulic oil has better anti foaming properties than engine oil as stated above. It is also supposed to have better heat tolerance than engine oil.
 
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Wildchild467

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I also wonder the difference between engine oil and hydraulic oil, or Hy-trans is the additives that help shrear strengh. I know in a motorcycle i used to have it did not shift as nice with regular engine oil, but when i put motorcycle engine oil in it, it shifted real nice. I want to flush out the power steering fluid in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee for preventative maintance and power steering fluid in the autoparts store isnt cheap. Im wondering if a hy-trans oil would be a better fluid for cheaper. i believe the viscosity of the hy-trans at tractor supply is something like 10w-30. I could see where the oil may not have as much detergents as motor oil because it will not see carbon diposits, but it has anti-foaming agents and shrear strength agents maybe.... what do you guys think?
 

jollyroger

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Power steering fluid should basically be hydraulic fluid. You can run the ATF like Mercon/Dexron in the power steering but........I know Power steering fluid is more expensive but it is the right stuff for that application.
 

Wildchild467

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the only thing that bothers me about running ATF in power steering is that ATF is nasty with rubber products. I had a reannt gasket leak in my 1940 Ford with a TH350 tranny and it ate up the rubber trans mount like crazy. dont know if the seals in power steering systems are made for ATF. I know the trans mount wasnt for sure
 

paulfarber

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10W tells you nothing of the oil. It only tells you what the temp range that the oil will perform to its designated specs. You need to look at the API classification to ensure that the oil contains the proper additives for your motor.

Military fluids go by a different scheme (MILSPEC number) but civvy oils are all API rated. SA being the oldest and basically straight mineral oil.

Civvy gear oils are rated by GL1-6 and can be modifed with EP (extreme pressure) additives depending on the gearing/loads involved.

Generally single weight oils are better performing than multi-weight because the additives uses to make the multi-viscosity oils breaks down much quicker... you literally use the oil up quicker.

Tractor supply does carry detergent and non-detergent motor oil in 10W through 40W viscosity. The non-detergent is API SA 9straight mineral oil) and really has not use in any motor.

"It is not suitable for use in most gasoline powered automotive engines built after 1930"

You are foolish to not use a detergent oil no matter what. The detergent will hole the dirt in suspension and will take all the crud with it when you change the oil... filter or not its best to use it. You didn't think that non-detergent oil would 'protect' your motor becuase the dirt and crud instantly fell into the oil pan did you? hahahahahahaha yeah, thats how it works.
 
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